the alaska highway Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani ( 95 to 200) and, during Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg the alaska highway delights (if you try the chocolate

Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North and South Indian, including top- notch dosas ( 33 to 58). Its rava masala dosa (made with semolina) is the best thing ever.

Society To Save Rocks WALKING (%23552923; www.saverocks.org; 1236 Rd No 60, Jubilee Hills) This NGO organises monthly walks through the alaska highway the Andhran the alaska highway landscape and its surreal-looking boulders. Check website for details.

C Courses Dhamma the alaska highway Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation the alaska highway Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.