When he was 14, Sai Baba declared himself to be the reincarnation of another Sai Baba, a saintly figure who died in 1918 (p 764 ). His millions of devotees regarded him as a true avatar and believed aran island he performed miracles. Coming for the program of darshan (here that meant seeing Baba though since poor health in 2005 his appearances were increasingly sporadic), they packed the ashram twice-daily aran island for chanting and prayer. The sight of clean, well-paved streets lined with internet cafes might come as a surprise here, as will the prevalence of robed foreign devotees.
Non-ashram options include the clean and simple Sai Surya Guest House (%288134; Gopuram Rd, 1st Cross; r from 350), and the excellent-value Sri Sai Sadan (Meda s Guest House; %287507; srisaisadan@gmail. com; Gopuram Rd; r from 810; a), near Venugopalaswamy Temple, with a roof garden and spacious rooms with fridges and balconies.
To get here, take a Puttaparthi-Bengaluru bus and alight at Kodakonda Checkpost ( 40). From there, take a Hindupur-bound bus ( 14) or an autorickshaw ( 250 return) to Lepakshi. A private car from Puttaparthi is 1000. You can also go from Hindupur, a main stop on the Puttaparthi-Bengaluru train line, which has a few hotels. It s 11km from the temple.
Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.
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