Most buses and trains will stop en route at Bhongir, 60km from Hyderabad. It s worth jumping down for a couple of hours to climb the fantastical-looking 12th-century Chalukyan channel tunnel hill fort (admission 3; h9am6pm). Looking like a gargantuan stone egg, the hill is mostly ringed by stairs.
Vast dormitories (beds free) and guest- houses (r 50-2500) surround the temple in Tirumala, but these are intended for pilgrims. To stay, check in at the Central Reception Offi ce. Huge dining channel tunnel halls (meals free) serve thousands of pilgrims daily. Veg restaurants also serve meals for 15. The following places are all in Tirupathi.
Modern Cafe INDIAN $ (Sree Lakshmi Vilas; Besant Rd, Governorpet; meals 58; h6.30am-10.30pm) With blackand- white-check floors and mismatched wooden chairs, channel tunnel this gritty, down-home veg joint has a heavy 1940s vibe. The meals are great, as are the fresh juices ( 15).
Autorickshaw Flag fall is 12 for the first kilometre, channel tunnel then 7 for each additional kilometre. Between 10pm and 5am a 50% surcharge applies. Unfortunately, the new electronic meters often don t work and lots of drivers won t use them: be prepared to negotiate.
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