Wednesday, October 31, 2012

muskegon mi ferry 910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its va





910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic muskegon mi ferry wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi muskegon mi ferry were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist muskegon mi ferry activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas muskegon mi ferry enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered muskegon mi ferry by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist muskegon mi ferry thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South.

When he was 14, Sai Baba declared himself to be the reincarnation of another Sai Baba, a saintly muskegon mi ferry figure who died in 1918 (p 764 ). His millions of devotees muskegon mi ferry regarded him as a true avatar and believed he performed miracles. Coming muskegon mi ferry for the program of darshan (here that meant seeing Baba though since poor health in 2005 his appearances muskegon mi ferry were increasingly sporadic), they packed the ashram muskegon mi ferry twice-daily muskegon mi ferry for chanting and prayer. The sight of clean, well-paved streets muskegon mi ferry lined with internet cafes might come as a surprise here, as will the prevalence of robed foreign devotees.

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring a stone statue of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

alaska marine ferry Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150





Andhra plays hard to get: its charms are subtle. But if you look closely, you ll find a long, fascinating history of arts, culture, spiritual scholarship and religious harmony. In Hyderabad s Old City, Islamic monuments, Persian-inspired architecture and the call of the muezzin speak of the city s unique heritage.

C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.

Hyderabad s long-distance bus stations are mind-bogglingly efficient. alaska marine ferry Mahatma Gandhi bus station (Map p900; %24614406), more commonly known as Imlibun, alaska marine ferry has advance booking offices (%23434269; h8am-10pm). For trips to Karnataka, go with KSRTC (%24656430). Visit www.apsrtc.co.in for timetables and fares. alaska marine ferry

Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150; h10am-5pm Sat- Thu) The huge and varied collection, dating alaska marine ferry back to the 1st century, was put together by Mir Yusaf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), the grand vizier of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (r 1910 49). The 35,000 exhibits from every corner of the world include sculptures, wood carvings, ivory (including a sadly ironic set of carved elephants), devotional objects, alaska marine ferry Persian miniature paintings, illuminated manuscripts, weaponry, toys and more than 50,000 books. The impressive nizams jewellery collection is sometimes on display. Cameras are not allowed. Avoid Sunday, when it s bedlam. From any of the bus stands in the Abids area, take bus 7, which stops at Afzal Gunj bus stop (Map p 900 ) on the north side of the nearby Musi River bridge.

seattle to port angeles ferry kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,00





MAJOR DOMESTIC seattle to port angeles ferry FLIGHTS FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION LOWEST ONE-WAY FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FLIGHTS PER DAY Bengaluru 3000 1 20 Chennai 3000 1 15 Delhi 5000 2 12 Kolkota 5500 2 5 Mumbai 3000 1 25 Tirupathi 2800 1 3 Visakhapatnam 3500 1 5

kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,000 pilgrims come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) seattle to port angeles ferry brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim.

Nand International HOTEL $ (%24657511; www.nandhotels.com; Kacheguda Station Rd; s/d/tr from 535/635/735; a) The Nand is a pleasant surprise near Kacheguda seattle to port angeles ferry Station. It has a roof garden with potted geraniums (and chai on order), sitting areas, seattle to port angeles ferry water coolers, and well-looked-after peach-coloured rooms hung with weird mixed-media art.

ferry schedule san juan islands from the 3rd century AD and depict scenes from the Buddha s life, interspersed with mithuna (paired





from the 3rd century AD and depict scenes from the Buddha s life, interspersed with mithuna (paired male and female) figures languorously looking on. The reassembled monuments are spread around the hilltop outside.

Warangal is a major rail junction. Trains go regularly to Hyderabad (2nd class/chair 67/229, three hours), Vijayawada (2nd class/ ferry schedule san juan islands chair 79/278, four hours) and Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 277/723/979, 11 hours). Many trains go to Delhi daily.

Hyderabad, ferry schedule san juan islands City of Pearls, ferry schedule san juan islands is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments ferry schedule san juan islands and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, ferry schedule san juan islands mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.

sayville motor lodge Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Ind





MMTS trains (www.mmts.co.in) are convenient, particularly for the three main train stations. There are two main lines: Hyderabad (Nampally) to Lingampalli (northwest of Banjara Hills) has 11 stops, including Lakdikapul, Khairatabad, Necklace sayville motor lodge Rd, Begumpet and Hitec City; the Falaknuma (south sayville motor lodge of Old City) to Secunderabad line passes by Yakutpura, Dabirpura, Malakpet and Kachiguda among others. Trains will be labelled with their start and end point: HL is Hyderabad Lingampalli, FS is Falaknuma Secunderabad and so on. Trains are efficient but only run every 30 to 40 minutes. Tickets are 3 to 10.

Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am6pm), measuring 27m high and constructed in the 3rd century BC, when Emperor Ashoka sent monks south to spread the Buddha s teaching. Located 60km west of Vijayawada, all that remains are a mound and some stones, but the nearby museum (admission 5; h8am-5pm) has a small replica of the stupa, with its intricately carved pillars, marble- surfaced dome and carvings of scenes sayville motor lodge from the Buddha s life (no photography allowed in the museum). In the courtyard is a reconstruction of part of the surrounding gateway, sayville motor lodge which gives you an idea of the stupa s massive scale. It s worth the trip, but many of Amaravathi s best sculptures are in London s British Museum and Chennai s Government Museum in Tamil Nadu.

elizabeth river ferry 910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its va





Park HOTEL $$$ (%2754488; www.theparkhotels.com; Beach Rd; s/d from 7000/9000; ais) Vizag s only five-star is very elegant, very high-design. Even if you don t stay here, visit Bamboo Bay, its beachfront restaurant, for a drink. Checkout is noon.

910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. elizabeth river ferry They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South.

Warangal is a major rail junction. Trains go regularly to Hyderabad (2nd class/chair elizabeth river ferry 67/229, three hours), Vijayawada (2nd class/ chair 79/278, four hours) and Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 277/723/979, 11 hours). Many trains go to Delhi daily.

Vijayawada is considered by many to be the heart of Andhra culture and language and has an important Durga temple. Nearby Amaravathi, meanwhile, was a centre of Buddhist learning and practice for many centuries.

haley farris Buses run from Vijayawada to Amaravathi every half-hour or so ( 24, two hours), but it may be quicke





Buses run from Vijayawada to Amaravathi every half-hour or so ( 24, two hours), but it may be quicker to head to Guntur ( 12, 45 minutes) and take another bus from there. The drive here will take you through some lovely haley farris lush scenery and memorable glimpses of village life.

HEH the Nizam s Museum MUSEUM (Purani Haveli; Map p900; adult/student 70/15, camera 150; h10am-5pm Sat-Thu) The 16th-century Purani Haveli was home of the sixth nizam, Fath Jang Mahbub Ali Khan (r 1869 1911), rumoured to have never worn the same garment twice. His 72m-long, two-storey Burmese teak wardrobe, the first room you ll enter, certainly haley farris seems to substantiate the claim. In the palace s former servants quarters are personal effects of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (1886 1967) and gifts from his Silver Jubilee, lavish pieces that include an art deco silver letterbox collection. The museum s guides do an excellent job putting it all in context.

Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum MUSEUM (Map p902; Masab Tank; Indian/foreigner 10/100; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Andhra Pradesh s 33 tribal groups, based mostly in the northeastern part of the state, comprise several haley farris

ered in 1926 by archaeologist haley farris AR Saraswathi in the adjacent valley. In 1953, when it became known that a massive hydroelectric project would soon create the Nagarjuna Sagar reservoir, flooding the area, a six-year haley farris excavation was launched to unearth the area s many Buddhist ruins: stupas, viharas (monasteries), chaitya-grihas (assembly halls with stupas) and mandapas haley farris (pillared pavilions), as well as some outstanding examples of white-marble depictions of the Buddha s life. The finds were reassembled on Nagarjunakonda.

ferry from vancouver to seattle Walking TTD has constructed probably the best footpath in India for pilgrims to walk up to Tirumala.





Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum ferry from vancouver to seattle (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly sound-and-light show (admission ferry from vancouver to seattle 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh Bachchan. Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. An autorickshaw is 200 return.

Walking TTD has constructed probably the best footpath in India for pilgrims to walk up to Tirumala. ferry from vancouver to seattle It s about 15km from Tirupathi and takes four to six hours. Leave your luggage at the toll gate at Alipiri near the Hanuman statue. It will be transported ferry from vancouver to seattle free to the reception centre. At the time of research walking was prohibited from 4pm to 6am due to several leopard attacks on pilgrims. There are shady rest points along the way, and a few canteens.

seattle vashon ferry TAXI For prepaid taxis, pay at the counter inside the terminal, then get your cab at the PTC. Meru (





Survival within the fort was also attributable to water and sound. seattle vashon ferry A series of concealed glazed earthen pipes ensured a reliable water supply, while the ingenious design of the diamond-shaped ceiling Grand Portico creates an acoustic system that carries even the smallest echo across the fort complex up to the highest point of the fort used as a security system. Guides can also demonstrate the equally impressive acoustics in the royal palace where one s whisper seattle vashon ferry into

Submarine Museum MUSEUM ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-8.30pm Sun) A fascinating opportunity to look inside the 91m-long Indian navy submarine. The soviet-built Kursura saw battle in 1971 during the Liberation War, (which saw India side with East Pakistan in their struggle for independence from Pakistan resulting in the birth of Bangladesh) and, exploring within, you ll find a fantastic jumble of knobs, switches, wires, valves, gauges, nuts, bolts and dials.

TAXI For prepaid taxis, pay at the counter inside the terminal, then get your cab at the PTC. Meru (%44224422) and Easy (%43434343) radio taxis queue up outside arrivals and charge seattle vashon ferry 15 per kilometre, 18.75 at night. The trip to Abids or Banjara Hills shouldn t exceed 450. Going to the airport, try Yellow Taxi (%44004400).

elizabeth river ferry Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainla





Hyderabad has one of the world s largest elizabeth river ferry freestanding stone Buddha statues (Map p 898 ), completed elizabeth river ferry in 1990 after five years of work. However, when the 17.5m-high, 350-tonne monolith was being ferried to its place in the Hussain Sagar, the barge sank. Fortunately, the statue was raised undamaged in 1992 and is now on a plinth in the middle of the lake. It s a magnificent sight when alit at night.

Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainland India, is worth a visit. Here you ll find more bizarre sculptures, a lighthouse dating from 1861, an interesting Dutch cemetery and Bheemli Beach, where local grommets surf on crude homemade boards. To get here catch bus 999 ( 19), or otherwise a shared autorickshaw

Submarine Museum MUSEUM ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-8.30pm Sun) A fascinating opportunity to look inside the 91m-long Indian navy submarine. The soviet-built Kursura saw battle in 1971 during the Liberation War, (which saw India side with East Pakistan in their struggle elizabeth river ferry for independence from Pakistan resulting in the birth of Bangladesh) and, exploring within, you ll find a fantastic jumble of knobs, switches, wires, valves, gauges, nuts, bolts and dials.

Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, elizabeth river ferry impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.

arnolds ferry Warangal was the capital of the Kakatiya kingdom, which covered the greater part of present-day Andh





Golden Glory Guesthouse HOTEL $ (Map p902; %23554765; www.goldengloryguest house.com; Rd No 3, Banjara Hills; s/d incl breakfast from 650/900, s incl breakfast without bathroom 290; aW) Nestled among the mansions of ritzy Banjara Hills, this gem of a hotel scores big on location. Tucked down a quiet residential street, it s the perfect place to escape the madness of Hyderabad. First impressions arnolds ferry are grand with sparkling lobby and spiral staircase, and while the cheaper rooms are boxy, they re very clean and good value (and include a simple breakfast). Pricier rooms are more spacious with balconies and bathtubs.

Araku itself is a small dusty town, but its surroundings are beautiful. A bicycle is the perfect way to explore the countryside. You can hire a bicycle (per hour/day 50/250) from Hill Resort Mayuri. It s best to check the security situation before heading out, with a reported Naxalite (members of an

Warangal was the capital of the Kakatiya kingdom, which covered the greater part of present-day Andhra Pradesh from the late 12th to early 14th centuries until it was conquered by the Tughlaqs of Delhi. The Hindu Kakatiyas were great builders and patrons arnolds ferry of Telugu literature and arts, and during arnolds ferry their reign the Chalukyan style of temple architecture reached its pinnacle.

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

car ferries Excess Club BAR (%23542422; Novotel, Madhavpur; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) Set over a huge space, Excess was





Excess car ferries Club BAR (%23542422; Novotel, Madhavpur; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) Set over a huge space, Excess was the current most happening place; open the latest, the best DJs, but the furthest away past Hitech City.

Forty kilometres southwest of Vizag is this stunning Buddhist complex (admission free; h9am-6pm), better known by the name of its two hills, Bojjannakonda and Lingalakonda. Used by monks from the 1st to 9th centuries AD (p910), the hills are covered with rock-cut

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Hyderabad s new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport is the main arrival point. The main train stations are Nampally and Secunderabad car ferries in Hyderabad; Imlibun is the interstate bus station. Visakhaptnam has monthly ferries leaving to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Fast Facts

sayville movies Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), con





Chudi Bazar HUSSINIALAMNAMPALLYABIDSKOTIPATTHARGATTIMUGHALPURAMusiRiverMir Alam Mandi Chadarghat Bridge KachegudaMainRdJawaarlal Nehru (JN) Rd MaulviAlladinRd Mir Alam Mandi Rd High C o u r t Rd Shah Ali Banda Rd Jambagh Rd SalarJungMarg RaniJhansi Rd Hussaini A l a m Rd Kot i M a in Rd DabirpuraTrain Station MalakpetTrain Station YakutpuraTrain Station 12 2 5 4 7 6 10 9 11 15 13 14 3 1 8 CharminarState Library 431CBC24312BAADDPatthargatti Area 0 1 km 0 0.5 milese the nizam s living sayville movies quarters and has its own swimming sayville movies pool and personal butler! If you don t have a spare half million, you can still pop in for high tea in the Jade Room, which has hosted royalty from around the world.

Nowhere suits the term fit for royalty sayville movies better sayville movies than at the Falaknuma Palace, the former residence of the sixth nizam. Taking over a decade to restore, the Taj Group s latest luxury sayville movies hotel has most certainly been worth the wait. The cheapest rooms have Italian marble floors, colonial furniture and great city views, while the Presidential Suite (an astounding 500,000 per night) was

Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), constructed of white Rajasthani marble in 1976, graces Kalabahad (Black Mountain), one of two rocky hills overlooking the Hussain Sagar. Dedicated to Venkateshwara, the temple is a popular Hindu pilgrimage centre and affords excellent views over the city, especially at sunset. The library (h4- 8pm) here is worth a visit

Tirupathi s bus station (%2289900) sayville movies has buses to Chennai (deluxe/Volvo 70/155, four hours) and Hyderabad (deluxe/Volvo 408/717, 12/10 hours). Tonnes of APSRTC and KSTDC buses go to Bengaluru (deluxe/Volvo 153/365, six/five hours), and seven buses go to Puttaparthi daily (express/deluxe 165/227, eight hours).

new york city water taxi Launches ( 90, one hour) depart from Vijayapuri, on the banks of Nagarjuna Sagar, at 9.30am, 11am an





Launches ( 90, one hour) depart from Vijayapuri, on the banks of Nagarjuna new york city water taxi Sagar, new york city water taxi at 9.30am, 11am and 1.30pm, and stay for one hour. To do the place justice, take the morning launch out and the afternoon one back. Extra morning launches usually run on weekends and holidays. Fisherman out in their dish-shaped coracle boats provide good photographic material.

fast from 1690/1790; aW) Under new management, the former budget Jaya International has reinvented itself as a smart and modern business hotel. Rooms are great value, comfortable and ultramodern. Its downside is the scungy hallways.

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring a stone statue of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

train from stockholm to copenhagen YMCA HOSTEL $ (Map p896; %27801190; secunderabadymca@ yahoo.co.in; cnr SP & SD Rd, Secunderabad; r f





YMCA HOSTEL $ (Map p896; %27801190; secunderabadymca@ yahoo.co.in; cnr SP & SD Rd, Secunderabad; r from 500, without bathroom from 350; a) One of the better cheapies, this cheery hostel has clean, no frill rooms, some with private balcony. It s near the clock tower. train from stockholm to copenhagen

Vijayawada is on the main Chenna train from stockholm to copenhagen Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised train from stockholm to copenhagen advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.

If you re travelling around Andhra Pradesh during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called bhattis. train from stockholm to copenhagen You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.

ferry from wi to mi 907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10





oTaj Mahal Hotel (Himayathnagar) HOTEL $$ (off Map p898; %27637836-9; tajcafe@gmail.com; Himayathnagar; s/d from 900/1200; aW) Despite its unfortunate location in front of an overpass on Himayathnagar ferry from wi to mi Rd, the Taj is a peaceful, sunny, stylish place where the staff are warm and welcoming and the hallway floors look like Jaipuri marble. Rooms are surprisingly tasteful, with sleek lamps and chunky, contemporary wooden furniture. Comfy and classy for less than the going rate makes this a great choice.

Liquids Et cera BAR (Map p902; %66259907; Bhaskar Plaza, Rd No 1, Banjara Hills) Regularly featured in the papers Society pages, Liquids is the reigning queen of Hyderabad nightlife. There s no sign, and its name changes slightly each year.

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) ferry from wi to mi Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly ferry from wi to mi Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly and Kacheguda, which is convenient for Abids. See p908, for key routes. You can book at Hyderabad and Secunderabad stations from 8am to 8pm Monday to Saturday (to 2pm Sunday). Both stations have a tourist counter. For general enquiries, phone %139; for reservation status, ferry from wi to mi %135.

port jefferson ferry address B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O





B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram port jefferson ferry address Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari port jefferson ferry address Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda port jefferson ferry address Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) port jefferson ferry address Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli port jefferson ferry address Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool port jefferson ferry address Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda port jefferson ferry address Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles

Excess Club BAR (%23542422; Novotel, Madhavpur; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) Set over a huge space, port jefferson ferry address Excess was the current most happening place; open the latest, the best DJs, but the furthest away past Hitech City.

Victoria Jubilee Museum MUSEUM (MG Rd; admission Indian/foreigner 20/100, port jefferson ferry address camera 3; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu) The best part of this museum is the building itself, built in 1887 to honour Queen Victoria s coronation jubilee. In 1921 it hosted the Congress port jefferson ferry address meeting

wa ferry rates 6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung M





Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attributed to him is the granting of any wish made before the idol at Tirumala. Many pilgrims also donate their hair to the deity in gratitude for a wish fulfilled, or to renounce ego so hundreds of barbers attend to devotees. Tirumala and Tirupathi are filled with tonsured men, women and children, generating big money from exports to Western wig companies.

6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung Museum. B2 14 Koti Bus Station. B1 15 Mahatma wa ferry rates Gandhi (Imlibun) Bus Eating Station. C1 9 Hotel Shadab. B3 Hotel Suhail HOTEL $ (Map p898; %24610299; www.hotel wa ferry rates suhail.in; Troop Bazaar; s/d/tr from 475/620/900; ai) If all budget hotels were like the Suhail, we d all be much better off. Staff are friendly wa ferry rates and on top of it, the rooms are large and quiet, have balconies and constant hot water. It s tucked away on an alley behind the main post offi ce and the Grand Hotel away from the Hyderabad bustle, but it s also unlit at night; some readers find it sketchy.

Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North and South Indian, wa ferry rates including top- notch dosas ( 33 to 58). Its rava masala dosa (made with semolina) is the best thing ever.

yogaworks larkspur schedule 909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids





909MAJOR BUS ROUTES yogaworks larkspur schedule FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD yogaworks larkspur schedule BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally yogaworks larkspur schedule 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally yogaworks larkspur schedule Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally 909MAJOR yogaworks larkspur schedule BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad yogaworks larkspur schedule station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally

# # # # f # # # SAIFABAD GUNFOUNDRY BASHIRBAGH HIMAYATHNAGAR HILL FORT HYDERGUDA KOTI HYDERABAD NAMPALLY Hussain Sagar Nizam College Grounds Lumbini Park Indira Gandhi Park Public Gardens NTR Gardens Bashirbagh yogaworks larkspur schedule Flyover Mukarramjahi Rd Public Gardens Rd Tankbund Rd Lakdi-ka-pulRd Chapel Rd Nampally StationRd Hill Fort Rd Raja Reddy Marg ChiragAli La JigarRd Secretariat yogaworks larkspur schedule Rd Indira Park Rd NTR Marg Koti Main Rd JNRd Himayathnagar Rd Tilak Rd King KothiRd Lower Tankbund Rd Bank St Abids Rd Ashok Nagar Rd Narayanguda Rd Sultan Bazar Rd Hyderguda Main Rd (Old MLA Quarters Rd) Naubat Pahar Kalabhad Hyderabad (Nampally) Train Station Prasad's Multiplex 2 31 30 28 6 13 12 15 14 17 18 19 16 27 1 5 7 3 4 8 10 11 9 23 20 24 25 22 21 29 26 5

Most buses and trains will stop en route at Bhongir, 60km from Hyderabad. It s worth jumping down for a couple of hours to climb the fantastical-looking 12th-century Chalukyan hill fort (admission 3; h9am6pm). Looking like a gargantuan stone egg, the hill is mostly ringed by stairs.

Survival within yogaworks larkspur schedule the fort was also attributable to water and sound. A series of concealed glazed yogaworks larkspur schedule earthen pipes ensured a reliable water supply, while the ingenious design of the diamond-shaped ceiling Grand Portico creates an acoustic system that carries yogaworks larkspur schedule even the smallest echo across the fort complex up to the highest point of the fort used as a security system. Guides can also demonstrate the equally impressive acoustics in the royal palace where one s whisper into

ferry from nj to ny Tirupathi station is well served by express trains, running to Chennai (2nd-class chair/ chair ( 62/





Tirupathi ferry from nj to ny station is well served by express trains, running ferry from nj to ny to Chennai (2nd-class chair/ chair ( 62/206, ferry from nj to ny three hours), Bengaluru (sleeper/3AC/2AC 168/470/628, ferry from nj to ny seven hours), Hyderabad/Secunderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 284/764/1047, 12 hours) and Vijayawada (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The reservation office (%2225850; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) is across the street.

B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru ferry from nj to ny Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded ferry from nj to ny Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley ferry from nj to ny CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul ferry from nj to ny 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) ferry from nj to ny Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole ferry from nj to ny Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal ferry from nj to ny Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles

fast from 1690/1790; aW) Under new management, the former budget Jaya International ferry from nj to ny has reinvented itself as a smart and modern business ferry from nj to ny hotel. Rooms are great value, comfortable and ultramodern. Its downside is the scungy hallways.

sf bay ferry Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment





Forty kilometres southwest of Vizag is this stunning Buddhist complex (admission free; h9am-6pm), better known by the name of its two hills, Bojjannakonda and Lingalakonda. Used by monks from the 1st to 9th centuries AD (p910), the hills are covered with rock-cut

Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. sf bay ferry B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha sf bay ferry Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld sf bay ferry Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. sf bay ferry (see 12) Abids Area Sights sf bay ferry 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. sf bay ferry B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 sf bay ferry 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 sf bay ferry Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. sf bay ferry B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12)

Chudi Bazar HUSSINIALAMNAMPALLYABIDSKOTIPATTHARGATTIMUGHALPURAMusiRiverMir Alam Mandi Chadarghat Bridge KachegudaMainRdJawaarlal Nehru (JN) Rd MaulviAlladinRd Mir Alam Mandi Rd High C o u r t Rd Shah Ali Banda Rd Jambagh Rd SalarJungMarg RaniJhansi Rd Hussaini A l a m Rd Kot i M a in Rd DabirpuraTrain Station MalakpetTrain Station YakutpuraTrain Station 12 2 5 4 7 6 10 9 11 15 13 14 3 1 8 CharminarState Library 431CBC24312BAADDPatthargatti Area 0 1 km 0 0.5 milese the nizam s living quarters and has its own swimming pool and personal butler! If you don t have a spare half million, you can still pop in for high tea in the Jade Room, which has hosted royalty from around the world. sf bay ferry

Chudi Bazar HUSSINIALAMNAMPALLYABIDSKOTIPATTHARGATTIMUGHALPURAMusiRiverMir Alam Mandi Chadarghat Bridge KachegudaMainRdJawaarlal Nehru (JN) Rd MaulviAlladinRd Mir Alam Mandi Rd High C o u r t Rd Shah Ali Banda Rd Jambagh Rd SalarJungMarg RaniJhansi Rd Hussaini sf bay ferry A l a m Rd Kot i M a in Rd DabirpuraTrain Station MalakpetTrain Station YakutpuraTrain Station 12 2 5 4 7 6 10 9 11 15 13 14 3 1 8 CharminarState Library 431CBC24312BAADDPatthargatti Area 0 1 km 0 0.5 milese the nizam s living quarters and has its own swimming pool and personal butler! If you don t have a spare half million, you can still pop in for high tea in the Jade Room, which has hosted royalty from around the world.

ferry from ireland to scotland Hotel Bliss HOTEL $$ (%2237773; www.blisstirupati.com; Reniguta Rd; s/d from 1710/1980; ais) The mos





Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), constructed of white Rajasthani marble in 1976, graces Kalabahad ferry from ireland to scotland (Black Mountain), one of two rocky hills overlooking the Hussain Sagar. ferry from ireland to scotland Dedicated to Venkateshwara, the temple is a popular Hindu pilgrimage centre and affords excellent views over the city, especially at sunset. The library (h4- 8pm) here is worth a visit

Hotel Bliss HOTEL $$ (%2237773; www.blisstirupati.com; Reniguta Rd; s/d from 1710/1980; ais) The most luxurious place in town with ultracomfortable rooms, professional staff and a glass lift with great views and droning pilgrim elevator music.

Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), constructed of white Rajasthani marble in 1976, graces Kalabahad (Black Mountain), one of two rocky hills overlooking the Hussain ferry from ireland to scotland Sagar. Dedicated to Venkateshwara, the temple is a popular Hindu pilgrimage centre and affords excellent views over the city, especially at sunset. The library (h4- 8pm) here is worth a visit

evelyn muhlhan 904 ANDHRA PRADESH KITSCHABAD Mixed in with Hyderabad s world-class sights, you ll find some attract





904 ANDHRA PRADESH KITSCHABAD Mixed in with Hyderabad s world-class sights, you ll find some attractions that err on the more quirky side; which can provide some good relief evelyn muhlhan from the proper sightseeing. Ramoji Film City FILM STUDIO (www.ramojifi lmcity.com; adult/child 500/450; h9.30am-5.30pm) The home of South India s burgeoning film industry, known as Tollywood, evelyn muhlhan Ramoji Film City is undoubtedly the premier kitsch sight of Hyderabad. Set on more than 670 hectares, this is the world s largest movie-making complex, producing Telugu, Tamil, Hindi and the occasional foreign film. Though you won t actually get to see any being made, the four-hour bus tour will take you through fl imsy film sets and gaudy fountains, stopping for dance routines and stunt shows. Located in the outskirts of town, around 20km from Abids, you can jump on bus 205 or 206 from Koti Women s College, northeast evelyn muhlhan of Koti station, which take an hour to get here. Health Museum MUSEUM (Map p898; Public Gardens Rd, Nampally; admission evelyn muhlhan free; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu) A throwback to a 1950s classroom, evelyn muhlhan this museum houses a bizarre collection of medical evelyn muhlhan and public-health paraphernalia. It features a rather terrifying giant model of a crab louse. Snow World AMUSEMENT PARK (Map p898; Lower Tankbund; admission 300; h11am-8pm) The perfect place to escape the heat, Snow World is, hands down, the coolest attraction in town (in a literal sense, of course ). It s a bizarre experience to suddenly find yourself in heavy-duty waterproof clothing amid people hurling snowballs, riding toboggans and playing snow volleyball. There s a snowfall on the hour, accompanied by cheers, a snow disco and lightshow. Suddha Car Museum MUSEUM (www.sudhacars.net; Bahadurpura; Indian/foreigner 30/150; h9.30am-6.30pm) Featuring the genius work of Sudhakar, here you ll find working cars in the shape of a toilet, computer, evelyn muhlhan cricket bat, hamburger or condom, among other wacky designs. He holds the Guinness world record for the largest tricycle, standing a whopping 12.8m tall. You can poke your head into the workshop evelyn muhlhan to see his latest project (at the time of research it was a stiletto shoe car). It s located east of the Nehru Zoological Park. NTR Park PARK (Map p898; child/adult 10/20; h2.30-8.30pm) Making evelyn muhlhan for a nice stroll about, with pleasant gardens, theme park rides and a games arcade, taking the cake in the kitsch stakes is the gaudy restaurant evelyn muhlhan shaped like a giant fruit bowl. Amurutha Castle HOTEL (www.bestwesternamruthacastle.com; Saifabad; d from 4800) Always dreamt of staying in a Bavarian castle while in Hyderabad? Probably not, but in case you did, this massive castle- hotel, based on the Schloss evelyn muhlhan Neuschwanstein, is the place to do it. It ain t cheap though. 6 Drinking & Entertainment

and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda evelyn muhlhan has a two-storey evelyn muhlhan group of rock-cut caves fl anked by dwarapalakas (doorkeepers) and containing a stupa and gorgeous carvings of the Buddha (some restored). Atop the hill sit the ruins of a huge stupa and a monastery; you can still make out the individual cells where monks meditated. Lingalakonda is piled high with stupas, some of them enormous.

The bus stand has a helpful enquiry desk (%2522200). Frequent services run to Hyderabad (deluxe/Volvo 193/375, six to seven hours), Amaravathi ( 38, two hours), Warangal (deluxe 180, 5 hours) and Visakhapatnam (deluxe/Volvo 270/540, nine hours).

From the 7th to the 10th century, the Chalukyas ruled the area, establishing their Dravidian style of architecture, especially along the coast. The Chalukya and Chola dynasties merged in the 11th century to be overthrown by the Kakatiyas, who introduced pillared temples into South Indian religious architec

alaska weather june Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum MUSEUM (Map p902; Masab Tank; Indian/foreigner 10/100; h10.30am-5pm Mo





Excess Club BAR (%23542422; Novotel, Madhavpur; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) Set over a huge space, Excess was the current most happening place; open the latest, the best DJs, but the furthest away past Hitech City.

Society To Save Rocks WALKING (%23552923; www.saverocks.org; 1236 Rd No 60, Jubilee Hills) This NGO organises monthly walks through the Andhran landscape and its surreal-looking boulders. Check website for details.

Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum MUSEUM (Map p902; Masab Tank; Indian/foreigner 10/100; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Andhra Pradesh s 33 tribal alaska weather june groups, based mostly in the northeastern part of the state, comprise several

sayville flea market Chudi Bazar HUSSINIALAMNAMPALLYABIDSKOTIPATTHARGATTIMUGHALPURAMusiRiverMir Alam Mandi Chadarghat Bri





Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai sayville flea market Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai sayville flea market (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, sayville flea market seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.

Chudi Bazar HUSSINIALAMNAMPALLYABIDSKOTIPATTHARGATTIMUGHALPURAMusiRiverMir Alam Mandi Chadarghat Bridge KachegudaMainRdJawaarlal Nehru (JN) Rd MaulviAlladinRd Mir Alam Mandi Rd High C o u r t Rd Shah Ali Banda Rd Jambagh Rd SalarJungMarg RaniJhansi Rd Hussaini A l a m Rd Kot i M a in Rd DabirpuraTrain Station MalakpetTrain sayville flea market Station YakutpuraTrain Station 12 2 5 4 7 6 10 9 11 15 13 14 3 1 8 CharminarState Library 431CBC24312BAADDPatthargatti Area 0 1 km 0 0.5 milese

nws juneau Park HOTEL $$$ (%2754488; www.theparkhotels.com; Beach Rd; s/d from 7000/9000; ais) Vizag s only fiv





kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,000 pilgrims come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, nws juneau a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim.

Park HOTEL $$$ (%2754488; www.theparkhotels.com; Beach Rd; s/d from 7000/9000; ais) Vizag s only five-star is very elegant, very high-design. Even if you don t stay here, visit Bamboo Bay, its beachfront restaurant, for a drink. Checkout is noon.

Warangal is a major rail junction. Trains go regularly to Hyderabad (2nd class/chair 67/229, nws juneau three hours), Vijayawada (2nd class/ nws juneau chair 79/278, nws juneau four hours) and Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 277/723/979, 11 hours). Many trains go to Delhi daily.

knight s ferry oWaterfront ASIAN FUSION $$$ (Map p902; %65278899; Necklace Rd; mains 175-650; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm





oWaterfront knight s ferry ASIAN FUSION $$$ (Map p902; %65278899; Necklace Rd; mains 175-650; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm) The outdoor deck here on the water (dinner service only) may have the best ambience in all of Hyderabad, with soft lighting overhead, the Buddha Statue and the entire Hussain Sagar and the Birla Mandir all twinkling in the distance. Eating indoors, alongside enormous picture windows, isn t bad either. But it s the Chinese, Indian and Thai food that s to die for their take on phad kea mou (noodles with tasty bok choy) is a must-eat.

So come, but only if you re prepared to dig for the jewels to be found here. Keep your eyes open and your curiosity sharp and you re bound to find something that even Andhrans, in their modesty, hadn t thought to mention.

san juan islands ferry schedule 907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10





India Tourism (Government of India; Map p 898; %23261360, 23260770; Netaji Bhavan, san juan islands ferry schedule Himayathnagar Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Very helpful for information on Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and beyond.

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 san juan islands ferry schedule 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

YMCA HOSTEL $ (Map p896; %27801190; secunderabadymca@ yahoo.co.in; cnr SP & SD Rd, Secunderabad; r from 500, without bathroom from 350; a) One of the better cheapies, this cheery hostel has clean, no frill rooms, some with private balcony. It s near the clock tower.

Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big about this dosa joint: san juan islands ferry schedule the portions, the taste and the very idea itself of a gourmet dosa. The feta cheese and roasted pepper dosa, served with sundried-tomato chutney or the shredded chicken dosa make the journey out to Jubilee Hills worthwhile.

tarbert ferry The citadel is built on a granite hill, 120m high and surrounded by crenellated ramparts constructed





The Vizag area s natural harbours have long been conducive to dropping anchor, which helped monks from Sri Lanka, China and Tibet come here to learn and practice meditation. Bavikonda (h9am-6pm) and Thotlakonda (h10am-3pm) were popular hilltop monasteries on the coast that hosted up to 150 monks at a time with the help of massive tarbert ferry rainwater tanks and, at Thotlakonda, a natural spring.

Tirupathi s bus station (%2289900) has buses to Chennai (deluxe/Volvo 70/155, four hours) and Hyderabad (deluxe/Volvo 408/717, 12/10 hours). Tonnes tarbert ferry of APSRTC and KSTDC buses go to Bengaluru (deluxe/Volvo 153/365, six/five hours), and seven buses go to Puttaparthi daily (express/deluxe 165/227, eight hours).

The citadel is built on a granite hill, 120m high and surrounded by crenellated ramparts tarbert ferry constructed from large masonry blocks. The massive gates were studded with iron spikes to obstruct war elephants. Outside the citadel there stands another crenellated rampart, with a perimeter tarbert ferry of 11km, and yet another wall beyond this. At Naya Quila (new fort), adjacent to the golf course, you can find a magnifi cent 400-year-old tarbert ferry baobab tree (Hathiyan elephant tree), with a circumference of 25m, said to be planted by seedlings carried by African regiments from Abyssiania. Exploring the crumbling rampart in the area you ll find cannons strewn about (some with beautiful inscriptions) and great views of the fort and tombs.

puget sound ferry map Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple a





C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; Hill Colony) Keeping the legacy of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses puget sound ferry map in the grounds overlooking Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.

Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple and for being, along with Machilipatnam near Vijayawada, a centre for the ancient art of kalamkari. These paintings are made with natural ingredients: the cotton is primed with myrabalam (resin) and cow s milk; figures are drawn with a pointed bamboo stick dipped in fermented jaggery and water; and the dyes are made from cow dung, ground seeds, plants and flowers. You can see the artists at work in the Agraharam neighbourhood, 2.5km from the bus stand. Sri Vijayalakshmi Fine Kalamkari puget sound ferry map Arts (%9441138380; door No 15890) is an old family business with 40 artists.

Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attributed to him is the granting of any wish made before the idol at Tirumala. Many pilgrims also donate their hair to the deity in gratitude for a wish fulfilled, or to renounce ego so hundreds of barbers attend to devotees. Tirumala and Tirupathi are filled with tonsured men, women and children, generating big money from exports to Western wig companies.

sayville movies # # # # # # # # # f SR NAGAR AMEERPET BANJARA HILLS SOMAJIGUDA MASAB TANK SAIFABAD Hussain Sagar Ban





# # # # # # # # # f SR NAGAR AMEERPET BANJARA HILLS SOMAJIGUDA MASAB TANK SAIFABAD Hussain Sagar Banjara Lake KBR Park Jalagam Vengala Rao Park Chacha Nehru Park Ameerpet Rd Rd No 3 Panjagutta Rd Lakdi-ka-pul Rd Mahavir Marg RdNo 1 Rd No 2 Greenlands Rd Rd No 14 YellareddygudaRd sayville movies RdNo 5 Rd No 13 Rd No 7 Rd No 10 AmeerpetRd Rd No 12 Balkampet Rd YousufgudaMain Rd Srinagar Colony Rd Necklace Rd Necklace Rd Train Station Khairatabad Train Station Begumpet Train Station Lakdikapul Train Station 20 19 18 12 14 5 10 6 9 8 15 17 2 13 11 1 16 7 3 4 Care Hospital 4

The citadel is built on a granite hill, 120m high and surrounded by crenellated ramparts constructed sayville movies from large masonry blocks. The massive gates were studded with iron spikes to obstruct war elephants. Outside the citadel there stands another crenellated rampart, with a perimeter of 11km, and yet another wall beyond this. At Naya Quila (new fort), adjacent to the golf course, you can find a magnifi cent 400-year-old baobab tree (Hathiyan elephant tree), with a circumference of 25m, said to be planted by seedlings carried by African regiments from Abyssiania. Exploring the crumbling rampart in the area you ll find cannons strewn about (some with beautiful inscriptions) and great views of the fort and tombs. sayville movies

john farris oTaj Mahal Hotel (Himayathnagar) HOTEL $$ (off Map p898; %27637836-9; tajcafe@gmail.com; Himayathnag





oTaj Mahal Hotel (Himayathnagar) HOTEL $$ (off Map p898; %27637836-9; tajcafe@gmail.com; Himayathnagar; john farris s/d from 900/1200; aW) Despite john farris its unfortunate location in front of an overpass on Himayathnagar Rd, the Taj is a peaceful, sunny, stylish place where the staff are warm and welcoming and the hallway floors look like Jaipuri marble. Rooms are surprisingly tasteful, with sleek lamps and chunky, contemporary wooden furniture. Comfy and classy for less than the going rate makes this a great choice.

Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo 250/530, eight/seven hours) and, in the afternoon, Hyderabad ( superluxury / Volvo 470/870, 14/12 hours).

port angeles ferry to victoria bc New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, Bowdara Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An u





New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, Bowdara Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An unassuming little place with really good, really hot Andhra dishes. Meals ( 50/130 for veg/ non-veg) and biryani are top-notch.

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring a stone statue of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

friday harbor ferry schedule From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, reigned throughout the Dec





Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.

From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, reigned friday harbor ferry schedule throughout the Deccan plateau. It evolved from the Andhra people, whose presence in southern India may date back to 1000 BC. The Buddha s teaching took root here early on, and in the 3rd century BC the Andhras fully embraced it, building huge edifices in its honour. In the coming centuries, the Andhras would develop a fl ourishing civilisation that extended from the west to the east coasts of South India.

washington ferry map 909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids





Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm).

909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station washington ferry map Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally 909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee washington ferry map station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station washington ferry map Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally

buckleberry ferry Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North a





Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North and South Indian, including top- notch dosas ( 33 to 58). Its rava masala dosa (made with semolina) is the best thing ever.

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring buckleberry ferry a stone statue of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

ferry county # # SECUNDERABADMARREDPALLYHussainSagarSanjiraiahPark Parade Grounds SD Rd Sardar Patel (SP) Rd C l





# # SECUNDERABADMARREDPALLYHussainSagarSanjiraiahPark Parade Grounds SD Rd Sardar Patel (SP) Rd C l u b R d StMarysRd Rashtrapati Rd WestMarredpallyRd Necklace Rd W ellingtonRd BoyigudaRd Entrenc hmentRd ferry county Kavadigu d a RdSikhVillage Rd SarojiniDevi(SD)Rd MG Rd Park L a St No 16 S P R d MinisterRdSubha s h R d PicketRd Sanjiraiah ParkTrain Station James St Train Station Secunderabad Train Station American Consulate Jubilee ferry county Bus Station Mahankali Temple APTDC SpanishMosque 5 3 4 1 2 31CBC2312BAADD ferry county ANDHRA PRADESH

The Kirandol passenger train ( 20, five hours) leaves Vizag at 6.50am and Araku at 3pm. It s a slow, spectacular ride; sit on the right-hand side coming out of Vizag for best views. For Jungle Bells, get off at Tyda station, 500m from the resort. Frequent buses ( 58, 4 hours) leave from Araku to Vizag every hour until 7pm.

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30pm) Bashirbagh (Map p898 ; %23298456; NSF Shakar Bhavan, opposite Police Control Room); Secunderabad (Map p896 ; %27893100; ferry county Yatri Nivas Hotel, Sardar Patel Rd); Tankbund Rd (Map p898 ; %65581555; h10.30am-5pm) Organises tours.

maria ferry salon About 65km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa Temple (h6am-6.30pm), built in 1234, is an at





About 65km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa maria ferry salon Temple (h6am-6.30pm), built in 1234, is an attractive example of Kakatiya architecture, although it was clearly influenced maria ferry salon by Chalukya and Hoysala styles. Its pillars are ornately carved and its eaves shelter fine statues of female maria ferry salon forms.

Non-ashram options include the clean and simple Sai Surya Guest House (%288134; Gopuram Rd, 1st Cross; r from 350), and the excellent-value Sri Sai Sadan (Meda s Guest House; %287507; srisaisadan@gmail. com; Gopuram Rd; r from 810; a), near Venugopalaswamy Temple, with a roof garden maria ferry salon and spacious rooms with fridges and balconies.

ss badger car ferry Warangal, Hanamkonda and Kazhipet are sister towns. The Warangal train station and bus stand are opp





Warangal, Hanamkonda ss badger car ferry and Kazhipet are sister towns. The Warangal train station and bus stand are opposite each other, and the post office and police station are on Station Rd. Main Rd connects ss badger car ferry Warangal and Hanamkonda. It can be easily visited as a day trip.

Shilparamam Crafts Village HANDICRAFTS ss badger car ferry (off Map p902; www.shilparamam.org; Madhapur; adult/child 25/10; h10.30am-8.30pm) Near Hitech City, this government-initiative arts village has stalls selling handicrafts and clothes from all over India. A night bazaar is also planned. It has nice gardens with a pond to stroll about.

direct ferries Excess Club BAR (%23542422; Novotel, Madhavpur; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) Set over a huge space, Excess was





Excess Club BAR (%23542422; Novotel, Madhavpur; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) Set over a huge space, Excess was the current most happening place; open the latest, the best DJs, but the furthest away past Hitech City.

Hyderabad s long-distance bus stations are mind-bogglingly efficient. Mahatma Gandhi bus station direct ferries (Map p900; %24614406), more commonly known as Imlibun, has advance booking offices (%23434269; h8am-10pm). For trips to Karnataka, go with KSRTC (%24656430). Visit www.apsrtc.co.in for timetables and fares.

cathlamet ferry Qutb Shahi Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; admission 10, camera/video 20/100; h9am-5pm) These graceful do





Qutb Shahi Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; admission 10, camera/video 20/100; h9am-5pm) These graceful domed tombs sit serenely in landscaped gardens about 1.5km northwest of Golconda Fort s Balahisar Gate. Seven of the nine Qutb Shahi rulers were buried here, as well as members of the royal family and respected citizens from entertainers to doctors. You could easily spend half a day here taking photos and wandering in and out of the mausoleums. cathlamet ferry The upper level of Mohammed cathlamet ferry Quli s tomb, reached via a narrow staircase, cathlamet ferry has good views of the area. The Qutb Shahi Tombs booklet cathlamet ferry ( 20) may be available at the ticket counter.

Visit Visakhapatnam also called Vizag (vie-zag) during the holiday season and you ll see domestic tourism in rare form: balloons, fairy floss (cotton candy) and, of course, weddings! But the crowds only enhance cathlamet ferry the area s kitschy coasts. The rundown boardwalk along Ramakrishna Beach has lots of spunk, and the beach at nearby Rushikonda is Andhra s best.

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital cathlamet ferry (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

MMTS trains (www.mmts.co.in) cathlamet ferry are convenient, particularly for the three main train stations. There are two main lines: Hyderabad (Nampally) to Lingampalli (northwest of Banjara Hills) has 11 stops, including Lakdikapul, Khairatabad, Necklace Rd, Begumpet and Hitec City; the Falaknuma (south of Old City) to Secunderabad line passes by Yakutpura, Dabirpura, Malakpet and Kachiguda among others. Trains will be labelled with their start and end point: HL is Hyderabad Lingampalli, FS is Falaknuma Secunderabad cathlamet ferry and so on. Trains are efficient but only run every 30 to 40 minutes. Tickets are 3 to 10.

sidney bc ferry Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi





(%2856330; sidney bc ferry www.saipriyabeachresorts.com; sidney bc ferry cottages/r from 700/1300; ais) Boasting a prime position right on Rushikonda beach, Sai Priya offers either modern rooms, some with sea views, or more rustic bamboo and cane cottages which have more of a beachy feel. The grounds are lush and almost really beautiful but, like the rest of the place, they fall short of their potential. Also, checkout s a rude 8am. Guests and nonguests can use the pool for two hours for 100.

From the 7th to the 10th century, sidney bc ferry the Chalukyas ruled the area, establishing their Dravidian style of architecture, especially along the coast. The Chalukya and Chola dynasties merged in the 11th century to be overthrown by the Kakatiyas, who introduced pillared temples sidney bc ferry into South Indian religious architec

Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi Rds; s/d with AC from 1200/1650; a) This rambling 1924 heritage building has a magnificent exterior, plants peppered sidney bc ferry about and decent, though ultimately overpriced rooms. Each is different so ask to see a few: the better ones have boudoirs, crystal-knobbed armoires and wood-beam ceilings.

montauk ferry Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off





BBQ Nation INDIAN, CONTINENTAL $$ (Map p902; www.barbeque-nation.com; Rd No 1; lunch Mon-Sat 344, Sun 544, dinner 600; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm) All you can eat BBQ meat, seafood and vegetarian skewers served at your table.

Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine montauk ferry has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.

ferry schedule nc Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big





Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big about this dosa joint: the portions, the taste and the very idea itself of a gourmet dosa. The feta cheese and roasted pepper dosa, served with sundried-tomato chutney or the shredded chicken dosa make the journey out to Jubilee Hills worthwhile.

1 Absorb the meditative 3Admire incredible carved 6 Sit back and enjoy the vibrations of monks past at images at Veerbhadra Temple view on one of India s most Sankaram (p 913 ), Bavikonda in Lepakshi (p 918 ). scenic train trips to Araku and Thotlakonda (p 913 ) (p 913 )

Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainland India, is worth a visit. Here you ll find more bizarre sculptures, a lighthouse dating from 1861, an interesting Dutch cemetery and Bheemli Beach, where local grommets surf on crude homemade boards. To get here catch bus 999 ( 19), or otherwise a shared autorickshaw

isle way Hyderabad Perfumers PERFUMERY (Map p900; Patthargatti; h10am-8.30pm Mon- Sat) The family-run Hyderab





Hyderabad Perfumers PERFUMERY (Map p900; Patthargatti; h10am-8.30pm Mon- Sat) The family-run Hyderabad Perfumers, which has been in business for four generations, can whip something up for you on the spot.

Golconda Fort FORT (off Map p894; Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am5pm) Although most of this 16th-century fortress dates from the time of the Qutb Shah kings, its origins as a mud fort have been traced to the earlier reigns of the Yadavas and Kakatiyas.

ferry landing coronado # # # # f # # # SAIFABAD GUNFOUNDRY BASHIRBAGH HIMAYATHNAGAR HILL FORT HYDERGUDA KOTI HYDERABAD NAMP





The old beach-resort vibe exists despite the fact that Vizag is Andhra Pradesh ferry landing coronado s second-largest city, famous for shipbuilding, steel manufacturing and now, call centres, software and film production. It s a big, dusty city, but it s surrounded by little gems:

# # # # f # # # SAIFABAD GUNFOUNDRY BASHIRBAGH HIMAYATHNAGAR HILL FORT HYDERGUDA KOTI HYDERABAD NAMPALLY Hussain Sagar Nizam College Grounds Lumbini Park Indira Gandhi Park Public Gardens NTR Gardens Bashirbagh Flyover Mukarramjahi Rd Public Gardens Rd Tankbund Rd Lakdi-ka-pulRd Chapel Rd Nampally StationRd Hill Fort Rd Raja Reddy Marg ChiragAli La JigarRd Secretariat ferry landing coronado Rd Indira Park Rd NTR Marg Koti Main Rd JNRd Himayathnagar Rd Tilak Rd King KothiRd Lower Tankbund Rd Bank St Abids Rd Ashok Nagar Rd Narayanguda Rd Sultan Bazar Rd Hyderguda Main Rd (Old MLA Quarters Rd) Naubat Pahar Kalabhad Hyderabad (Nampally) Train Station Prasad's Multiplex 2 31 30 28 6 13 12 15 14 17 18 19 16 27 1 5 7 3 4 8 10 11 9 23 20 24 25 22 21 29 26 5

juneau noaa and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has





Warangal is a major rail junction. Trains go regularly to Hyderabad (2nd class/chair 67/229, three hours), Vijayawada (2nd class/ chair 79/278, four hours) juneau noaa and Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 277/723/979, 11 hours). Many trains go to Delhi daily.

India Tourism (Government of India; Map p 898; %23261360, 23260770; juneau noaa Netaji Bhavan, Himayathnagar Rd; h9.30am-6pm juneau noaa Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Very helpful for information on Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh juneau noaa and beyond.

and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has a two-storey group of rock-cut caves fl anked by dwarapalakas (doorkeepers) and containing a stupa and gorgeous carvings of the Buddha (some restored). Atop the hill sit the ruins of a huge stupa and a monastery; you can still make out the individual cells where monks meditated. Lingalakonda is piled high with stupas, some of them enormous.

Museum of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tours ( 500) from Vizag, which take in a performance of Dhimsa, juneau noaa a tribal dance, and the million-year-old limestone Borra Caves (admission 40, camera 100; h10am-1pm juneau noaa & 2-5pm), 30km from Araku.

ferry in seattle The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coa





1 Sights Undavalli Cave Temples HINDU SITE (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; h8am-5.30pm) Four kilometres southwest of Vijayawada, these stunning cave temples cut a fi ne silhouette against the palm trees and rice paddies. Shrines are dedicated to the Trimurti Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and one cave on the third level houses a huge, beautiful statue of reclining Vishnu ferry in seattle while seated deities and animals stand guard out front. The caves, in their Hindu form, date to the 7th century, but they re thought to have been constructed for Buddhist monks 500 years earlier. Bus 301 ( 9, 20 minutes) goes here.

Victoria Jubilee Museum MUSEUM (MG Rd; admission Indian/foreigner 20/100, camera 3; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu) The best part of this museum is the building itself, built in 1887 to honour Queen Victoria s coronation jubilee. In 1921 it hosted the Congress meeting ferry in seattle

The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coast you ll fi nd this side of India. Weekends get busy and take on a carnival-like atmosphere. Surfers keen for a paddle can rent decent boards from local surf pioneer, Melville, at SAAP

Good what s on guides include Channel 6 (www.channel6magazine.com), ferry in seattle GO Hyderabad and City Info. The juiciest is Wow! Hyderabad (www.wowhyderabad.com; 25). The Deccan Chronicle is a good local paper; its Hyderabad Chronicle insert has info on happenings.

cross sound ferry new london Puttaparthi is most easily reached from Bengaluru, 160km south; nine KSRTC buses (express/ Volvo 110





910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi cross sound ferry new london were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa cross sound ferry new london was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned cross sound ferry new london teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around cross sound ferry new london 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana cross sound ferry new london Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, cross sound ferry new london philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South.

Tirupathi is the service town at the bottom of the hill, with hotels, cross sound ferry new london restaurants, and transport; a fleet of buses constantly ferries pilgrims the 18km up and down. You ll find most of your worldly needs around the Tirupathi bus station (TP Area) and, about 500m away, the train station.

Puttaparthi is most easily reached from Bengaluru, 160km south; nine KSRTC buses (express/ Volvo 110/220, four hours) and eight trains (sleeper/3AC/2AC 133/323/420, three hours) head here daily. The KSRTC offi ce (%288938) is next to the bus station.

cape vincent ferry Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo





Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see the temple s Naga-lingam (a phallic representation of Shiva) crowned with a seven-headed cobra. The temple is known for its unfinished Kalyana Mandapam (Marriage Hall), depicting the wedding of Parvati and Shiva, and its Natyamandapa (Dance Hall), with carvings of dancing cape vincent ferry gods. The temple s most stunning features, though, are the Natyamandapa s ceiling frescoes.

Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo 250/530, eight/seven hours) cape vincent ferry and, in the afternoon, Hyderabad ( superluxury / Volvo 470/870, 14/12 hours).