dutch flyer Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big

Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 dutch flyer 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. dutch flyer B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. dutch flyer B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 dutch flyer Kamat Restaurant. (see 12) Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. dutch flyer (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. dutch flyer C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12)

6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung Museum. B2 14 Koti Bus Station. B1 15 Mahatma Gandhi (Imlibun) Bus Eating Station. C1 9 Hotel Shadab. B3 Hotel Suhail HOTEL $ (Map p898; %24610299; www.hotel suhail.in; Troop Bazaar; s/d/tr from 475/620/900; ai) If all budget hotels were like the Suhail, we d all be much better off. Staff are friendly and on top of it, the rooms are large and quiet, dutch flyer have balconies and constant hot water. It s tucked away on an alley behind the main post offi ce and the Grand Hotel away from the Hyderabad dutch flyer bustle, but it s also unlit at night; some readers find it sketchy.

Warangal is a major rail junction. Trains dutch flyer go regularly to Hyderabad (2nd class/chair 67/229, three hours), Vijayawada (2nd class/ chair 79/278, four hours) and Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 277/723/979, 11 hours). Many trains go to Delhi daily.

Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; dutch flyer h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big about this dosa joint: the portions, the taste and the very idea itself of a gourmet dosa. The feta cheese and roasted pepper dosa, served with sundried-tomato dutch flyer chutney or the shredded chicken dosa make the journey out to Jubilee Hills worthwhile.

north ferry shelter island Victoria Jubilee Museum MUSEUM (MG Rd; admission Indian/foreigner 20/100, camera 3; h10.30am-5pm Sat

Victoria Jubilee Museum MUSEUM (MG Rd; admission Indian/foreigner 20/100, camera 3; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu) The best part of this museum is the building itself, built in 1887 to honour Queen Victoria s coronation jubilee. In 1921 it hosted the Congress meeting

Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum north ferry shelter island (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm).

HEH the Nizam s Museum MUSEUM (Purani Haveli; Map p900; adult/student 70/15, camera 150; h10am-5pm Sat-Thu) The 16th-century Purani Haveli was home of the sixth nizam, Fath Jang Mahbub Ali Khan (r 1869 1911), rumoured to have never worn the same garment twice. His 72m-long, two-storey Burmese teak wardrobe, the first room you ll enter, certainly seems to substantiate north ferry shelter island the claim. north ferry shelter island In the palace s former servants quarters are personal effects of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (1886 1967) and gifts from his Silver Jubilee, lavish pieces that include an art deco silver letterbox collection. north ferry shelter island The museum s guides north ferry shelter island do an excellent job putting it all in context.

jetfoil FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Pai

Fusion 9 CONTINENTAL $$$ (Map p902; %65577722; Rd No 1; mains 325-425; h12-3.30pm & 7-11pm) Soft lighting and cosy decor set off pan-fried Norwegian salmon ( 650), lamb cutlets with rosemary and crispy potatoes ( 395), or pork chops ( 425). One of the best international menus in town also features (less expensive) Mexican, Thai, pizzas and veg dishes, and lots of imported liquor.

FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Paigah family, purportedly descendents of the second Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals under and alongside them. The Paigahs necropolis, tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble from Agra and lime stucco. The main complex contains 27 tombs with intricate inlay work, surrounded by delicately carved walls and canopies, stunning filigree screens with geometric patterning and, overhead, tall, graceful turrets. The tombs are down a small lane across from Owasi Hospital. Look for the Preston Junior College sign. The Paigah Tombs ( 20) booklet is sold at the AP State Museum, but not here.

ferry to alaska The bus station has a train reservation booth (h8am-noon & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun). For Hyderaba

The bus station has a train reservation booth (h8am-noon ferry to alaska & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun). For Hyderabad, an overnight train goes daily to Kacheguda (7604; sleeper/3AC/2AC 240/650/870, 10 hours). Overnight train 8564 runs to Visakhapatnam (sleeper/3AC/2AC 340/940/1300, 20 hours), ferry to alaska stopping at Vijayawada. The daily Udyan Express (6530) heads to Mumbai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 350/950/1300, 21 hours).

Qutb Shahi Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; admission 10, camera/video 20/100; h9am-5pm) These graceful domed tombs sit serenely in landscaped gardens about 1.5km northwest of Golconda Fort s Balahisar Gate. Seven of the nine Qutb Shahi rulers were buried here, as well as members ferry to alaska of the royal family and respected citizens from entertainers to doctors. You could easily spend half a day here taking photos and wandering in and out of the mausoleums. ferry to alaska The upper level of Mohammed Quli s tomb, reached via a narrow staircase, has good views of the area. The Qutb Shahi Tombs booklet ( 20) may be available at the ticket counter.

Survival within ferry to alaska the fort was also attributable to water and sound. A series of concealed glazed earthen pipes ensured a reliable water supply, while the ingenious ferry to alaska design of the diamond-shaped ceiling Grand Portico creates an acoustic system that carries even the smallest echo across the fort complex up to the highest point of the fort used as a security ferry to alaska system. Guides can also demonstrate the equally impressive acoustics in the royal palace where one s whisper into

Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous saris, salwar (trouser) suits and fabrics at fixed prices. Also has a branch in Banjara Hills (Map p902).

ferry to sf Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Ind

910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa ferry to sf s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely ferry to sf disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. ferry to sf But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century ferry to sf BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics ferry to sf of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. ferry to sf They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following ferry to sf centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South. 1 Sights Fort FORT (Indian/foreigner ferry to sf 5/100; h9am-6.30pm) Warangal s fort was a massive construction with three distinct circular strongholds surrounded ferry to sf by a moat. Four paths with decorative gateways, set according to the cardinal points, led to the Swayambhava, a huge Shiva temple. The gateways are still obvious, but most of the fort is in ruins. It s easily reached from Warangal by bus or autorickshaw ( 200 return). Admission includes entry to nearby Kush Mahal, a 16th century royal hall with artefacts on display.

Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am6pm), measuring 27m high and constructed in the 3rd century BC, when Emperor Ashoka sent monks south to spread the Buddha s teaching. Located 60km west of Vijayawada, all that remains ferry to sf are a mound and some stones, but the nearby museum (admission 5; h8am-5pm) has a small replica of the stupa, with its intricately carved pillars, marble- surfaced dome and carvings ferry to sf of scenes from the Buddha s life (no photography allowed in the museum). In the courtyard is a reconstruction of part of the surrounding gateway, which gives you an idea of the stupa s massive scale. It s worth the trip, but many of Amaravathi s best sculptures are in London ferry to sf s British Museum and Chennai s Government Museum in Tamil Nadu.

ferry routes Submarine Museum MUSEUM ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-8.30pm S

Submarine Museum MUSEUM ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-8.30pm ferry routes Sun) A fascinating opportunity to look inside the 91m-long Indian navy submarine. The soviet-built ferry routes Kursura ferry routes saw battle in 1971 during the Liberation ferry routes War, (which saw India side with East Pakistan in their struggle for independence from Pakistan resulting in the birth of Bangladesh) and, exploring within, you ll find a fantastic jumble of knobs, switches, wires, valves, gauges, nuts, bolts and dials.

You can also make your own way there from Hyderabad or Vijayawada. From Hyderabad, take a bus to Nagarjuna Sagar (from 85, four hours). From there, it s a 10 shared rickshaw to Pylon, and another 10 to the boat launch. The nearest train station is 22km away at Macherla, where buses leave regularly for Nagarjuna Sagar.

ferry to sandy hook beach 907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10

1000-Pillared Temple HINDU TEMPLE (h6am-6pm) Built in 1163, the 1000-Pillared Temple on the slopes of Hanamkonda Hill, 400m from Hanamkonda crossroads, is a fine example of Chalukyan architecture in a peaceful, leafy setting. Dedicated to three deities Shiva, Vishnu and Surya it has been carefully restored with intricately carved pillars and a central, very impressive Nandi (bull; Shiva s mount) of black granite.

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 ferry to sandy hook beach 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 ferry to sandy hook beach 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

1 Sights & Activities Nagarjunakonda Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ferry to sandy hook beach 5/100; ferry to sandy hook beach h8am-5pm) This thoughtfully laid-out museum, located on an island accessible by boat, has Buddha statues and beautifully carved limestone slabs that once adorned stupas. Most are

Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised ferry to sandy hook beach advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.

ferry from england to france MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Hyderabad s new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport is the main arrival point. T

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Hyderabad s new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport is the main arrival point. The main train stations are Nampally and Secunderabad ferry from england to france in Hyderabad; Imlibun is the interstate bus station. Visakhaptnam has monthly ferries leaving to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Fast Facts

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 ferry from england to france 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 ferry from england to france 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

1 Absorb the meditative 3Admire incredible carved 6 Sit back and enjoy the vibrations of monks past at images at Veerbhadra Temple view on one of India s most Sankaram (p 913 ), Bavikonda in Lepakshi (p 918 ). scenic train trips to Araku and Thotlakonda (p 913 ) (p 913 )

art isle 1 Sights & Activities Nagarjunakonda Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am-5pm) This thoughtfu

The old beach-resort vibe exists despite the fact that Vizag is Andhra Pradesh s second-largest city, famous for shipbuilding, steel manufacturing and now, call centres, art isle software and film production. It s a big, dusty city, but it s surrounded by little gems:

1 Sights & Activities Nagarjunakonda Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am-5pm) This thoughtfully laid-out museum, located on an island accessible by boat, has Buddha statues and beautifully carved limestone slabs that once adorned stupas. Most are

ferry to angel island Shilparamam Crafts Village HANDICRAFTS (off Map p902; www.shilparamam.org; Madhapur; adult/child 25/

If you re pressed for time, APTDC runs three-day tours ( 1950) to Tirumala from Hyderabad. KSTDC (p 849 ) and TTDC (p 998 ) offer the same from Bengaluru and Chennai, respectively. APTDC also has a full-day tour ( 340) of temples in the Tirupathi area.

Another Buddhist site 10km from the launch point is the peaceful Anupu with remains of a stupa, ferry to angel island university and amphitheatre; likewise relocated piece by piece prior to the construction of the dam. A tree here was planted by the Dalai Lama during his visit in 2006.

Shilparamam ferry to angel island Crafts Village HANDICRAFTS ferry to angel island (off Map p902; www.shilparamam.org; Madhapur; adult/child 25/10; h10.30am-8.30pm) Near Hitech City, this government-initiative arts village has stalls selling handicrafts and clothes from all over India. A night bazaar is also planned. It has nice gardens with a pond to stroll about.

ming fay About 75km from Puttaparthi is Lepakshi, site of the Veerbhadra Temple (admission free). The town ge

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Hyderabad s new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport is the main arrival point. The main train stations are Nampally and Secunderabad in Hyderabad; Imlibun is the interstate ming fay bus station. Visakhaptnam has monthly ferries leaving to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Fast Facts

About 75km from Puttaparthi is Lepakshi, site of the Veerbhadra ming fay Temple (admission free). The town gets its name from the Ramayana: when demon Ravana kidnapped Rama s wife, Sita, the bird Jatayu fought him and fell, injured, at the temple site. Rama then called him to get up; Lepakshi derives from the Sanskrit ming fay for Get up, bird.

The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coast you ll fi nd this side of India. ming fay Weekends get busy and take on a carnival-like atmosphere. Surfers keen for a paddle can rent decent boards from local surf pioneer, Melville, at SAAP

YMCA HOSTEL $ (Map p896; %27801190; secunderabadymca@ yahoo.co.in; cnr SP & SD Rd, Secunderabad; r from 500, without bathroom from 350; a) One of the better cheapies, this cheery hostel ming fay has clean, no frill rooms, some with private balcony. It s near the clock tower.

sayville lanes Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo

Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo 250/530, sayville lanes eight/seven hours) and, in the afternoon, Hyderabad ( superluxury / Volvo 470/870, 14/12 hours).

Hyderabad has one of the world s largest freestanding stone Buddha statues (Map p 898 ), completed in 1990 after five years of work. However, when the 17.5m-high, 350-tonne monolith was being ferried to its place in the Hussain Sagar, the barge sank. Fortunately, the statue was raised undamaged in 1992 and is now on a plinth in the middle of the lake. It s a magnificent sight when alit at night.

Hotel Annapurna HOTEL $$ (%2250666; Nethaji Rd; r from 850; a) A wee bit overpriced, but it s convenient and well organised. Rooms are clean, compact and pink, with constant hot water. sayville lanes Since it s on a corner (across from the train station), non-AC front rooms can be noisy. Its veg restaurant (mains 45-80) has fresh juices and Tirupathi s best food in sublime air-conditioning.

weather for alaska The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden

YMCA HOSTEL $ (Map p896; %27801190; secunderabadymca@ yahoo.co.in; cnr SP & SD Rd, Secunderabad; r from 500, without bathroom from 350; a) One of the better cheapies, this cheery hostel has clean, no frill rooms, some with private balcony. It s near the clock tower.

The interesting weather for alaska architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden, where temple weather for alaska sculptures from around the state (dating from the 3rd century AD) line shady paths, is lovely.

Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple and for being, along with Machilipatnam near Vijayawada, a centre for the ancient art of kalamkari. These paintings are made with natural ingredients: the cotton is primed with myrabalam (resin) and cow s milk; figures weather for alaska are drawn with a pointed bamboo stick dipped in fermented jaggery weather for alaska and water; and the dyes are made from cow dung, ground seeds, plants and flowers. You can see the artists at work in the Agraharam neighbourhood, weather for alaska 2.5km from the bus stand. Sri Vijayalakshmi Fine Kalamkari Arts (%9441138380; door No 15890) is an old family business with 40 artists.

eielson weather Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attribut

902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City families and good vibes. Kamat Hotel INDIAN $ (Map p 896 ; SD Rd, Secunderabad; mains 45-75; h7am-10pm) How much do we love Kamat Hotel? Words can t say. Each Kamat is slightly diff erent, but they re all cheap and good. There are two branches on SD Rd; the others are in Saifabad and on Nampally Station Rd (Map p 898 ). Meals (from 36) are reliably delish. Kamat Andhra Meals INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Troop Bazaar; meals from 45; hnoon- 4pm & 7-11pm) Excellent authentic Andhra meals on banana leaves, topped up till you almost faint with pleasure, and fi nished off with a banana. Its sister restaurants in the same compound Kamat Jowar Bhakri (Maharashtran), Kamat Restaurant eielson weather with air-con (North and South Indian) and Kamat Coffee Shop are likewise friendly family joints full of happy diners. No relation to Kamat Hotel. Also recommended: Paradise Persis Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Map p 896 ; cnr SD & MG Rds, Secunderabad; mains 125-245; h11.30am-11pm) eielson weather Ask any Hyderabadi about biryani, and they ll mention Paradise. Mozamjahi Market eielson weather MARKET $ (Map p 900 ; cnr Mukarramjahi & Jawaharlal Nehru Rds; h6am-6pm) A great place to buy fruit and vegies (or ice cream), while enjoying the alluring architecture eielson weather of the stone building, commissioned by the seventh nizam and named after his son. Sagar Papaji eielson weather Ka Dhaba INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Hanuman Tekdi Rd; mains 45-110; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm) Always busy, Papaji s has profoundly delicious veg and non-veg biryanis, curries and tikkas. Watch the : : : : : : : : 6 6 1

Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attributed to him is the granting of any wish made before the idol at Tirumala. Many pilgrims also donate their hair to the deity in gratitude eielson weather for a wish fulfilled, or to renounce ego so hundreds of barbers attend to devotees. Tirumala and Tirupathi are filled with tonsured men, women and children, generating big money from exports to Western wig companies. eielson weather

and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has a two-storey group of rock-cut caves fl anked by dwarapalakas (doorkeepers) and containing a stupa and gorgeous carvings of the Buddha (some restored). Atop the hill sit the ruins of a huge stupa and a monastery; you can still make out the individual cells where monks meditated. Lingalakonda is piled high with stupas, some of them enormous.

Visit Visakhapatnam also called Vizag (vie-zag) during eielson weather the holiday season and you ll see domestic tourism in rare form: balloons, fairy floss (cotton candy) and, of course, weddings! But the crowds only enhance the area s kitschy coasts. The rundown boardwalk along Ramakrishna Beach has lots of spunk, and the beach at nearby Rushikonda is Andhra s best.

norfolk ferry Angeethi PUNJABI $$ (Map p902; 7th fl, Reliance Classic Bldg, Rd No 1; mains 180-290; hnoon-3.30pm &

902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken norfolk ferry or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City families and good vibes. Kamat Hotel INDIAN $ (Map p 896 ; SD Rd, Secunderabad; mains 45-75; h7am-10pm) How much do we love Kamat Hotel? Words can t say. Each Kamat is slightly diff erent, but they re all cheap and good. There are two branches on SD Rd; the others are in Saifabad and on Nampally Station Rd (Map p 898 ). Meals (from 36) are reliably norfolk ferry delish. Kamat Andhra Meals INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Troop Bazaar; meals from 45; hnoon- 4pm & 7-11pm) Excellent authentic Andhra meals on banana leaves, topped up till you almost faint with pleasure, and fi nished off with a banana. Its sister restaurants in the same compound Kamat Jowar Bhakri (Maharashtran), Kamat Restaurant with air-con (North and South Indian) and Kamat Coffee Shop are likewise friendly family joints full of happy diners. norfolk ferry No relation to Kamat Hotel. Also recommended: Paradise norfolk ferry Persis Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Map p 896 ; cnr SD & MG Rds, Secunderabad; mains 125-245; h11.30am-11pm) Ask any Hyderabadi about biryani, norfolk ferry and they ll mention Paradise. Mozamjahi Market MARKET $ (Map p 900 ; cnr Mukarramjahi & Jawaharlal Nehru Rds; h6am-6pm) A great place to buy fruit and vegies (or ice cream), while enjoying the alluring architecture of the stone building, commissioned by the seventh nizam and named after his son. Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Hanuman Tekdi Rd; mains 45-110; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm) Always busy, Papaji s has profoundly delicious veg and non-veg biryanis, curries and tikkas. Watch the : : : : : : : : 6 6 1

Angeethi PUNJABI $$ (Map p902; 7th fl, Reliance Classic Bldg, Rd No 1; mains 180-290; norfolk ferry hnoon-3.30pm & 7-11pm) norfolk ferry Designed to resemble an old Punjabi dhaba (snack norfolk ferry bar), jazzed up with vintage Bollywood posters on the walls, Angeethi does outstanding North Indian and Punjabi dishes, such as corn methi malai (sweet-corn stew with fenugreek leaves; 185).

Boats depart norfolk ferry every month-ish for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Bookings for the 56hour journey (from 1960) can be made at the Shipping norfolk ferry Office (%2565597, 9866073407; Av Bhanoji Row; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) in the port complex. Bring your passport.

ferry fares Survival within the fort was also attributable to water and sound. A series of concealed glazed eart

Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former ferry fares Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainland India, is worth a visit. Here you ll find more bizarre sculptures, a lighthouse dating from 1861, an interesting Dutch cemetery and Bheemli Beach, where local grommets surf on crude homemade boards. To get here catch bus 999 ( 19), or otherwise a shared autorickshaw

About 75km from Puttaparthi is Lepakshi, site of the Veerbhadra Temple (admission free). The town gets its name from the Ramayana: ferry fares when demon Ravana kidnapped Rama s wife, Sita, the bird Jatayu fought him and fell, injured, at the temple site. Rama then called him to get up; Lepakshi derives from the Sanskrit for Get up, bird.

Survival within the fort was also attributable to water and sound. A series of concealed glazed earthen pipes ensured a reliable water supply, while the ingenious design of the diamond-shaped ceiling Grand Portico ferry fares creates an acoustic system that carries ferry fares even the smallest echo across the fort complex up to the highest ferry fares point of the fort used as a security system. Guides ferry fares can also demonstrate the equally impressive acoustics in the royal palace where one s whisper into

sayville commons Andhra plays hard to get: its charms are subtle. But if you look closely, you ll find a long, fascin

Hyderabad Perfumers PERFUMERY (Map p900; Patthargatti; h10am-8.30pm Mon- Sat) The family-run Hyderabad Perfumers, which has been in business for four generations, can whip something up for you on the spot.

Andhra plays hard to get: its charms are subtle. But if you look closely, you ll find a long, fascinating history of arts, culture, spiritual scholarship and religious sayville commons harmony. In Hyderabad s Old City, Islamic monuments, Persian-inspired architecture and the call of the muezzin speak of the city s unique heritage.

anchorage to juneau AP State Museum MUSEUM (Map p898; Public Gardens Rd, Nampally; admission 10, camera/video 100/500; h

Ofen BAKERY $$ (Map p902; www.theofen.com; Rd No 10; desserts 15-110; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat & Sun) Two words: Linzer torte. Scrumptious desserts (some vegan and sugar-free), fresh-baked bread and comfort food like sandwiches and pasta ( 90 to 250). Does all-day continental breakfasts.

The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coast you ll fi nd this side of India. Weekends get busy and take on a carnival-like atmosphere. Surfers keen for a paddle can rent decent boards from local surf pioneer, Melville, at SAAP

In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, anchorage to juneau and the traditions anchorage to juneau of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous anchorage to juneau Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished anchorage to juneau the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

AP State Museum MUSEUM (Map p898; Public Gardens Rd, Nampally; admission 10, camera/video 100/500; h10.30am5pm Sat-Thu) The continually renovated State Museum hosts a rather dusty collection of important archaeological finds from the area, as well as a Buddhist sculpture gallery, with some relics of the Buddha and an exhibit on Andhra s Buddhist history. There are also Jain and bronze sculpture galleries, a decorative-arts gallery and a 4500-year-old Egyptian mummy. The museum, like the gorgeous Legislative Assembly building (Map p 898 ) down the road (both commissioned by the seventh nizam), is floodlit at night.

bolivar ferry schedule You can also make your own way there from Hyderabad or Vijayawada. From Hyderabad, take a bus to Nag

You can also make your own way there from Hyderabad or Vijayawada. bolivar ferry schedule From Hyderabad, take a bus to Nagarjuna Sagar (from 85, four hours). From there, it s a 10 shared rickshaw to Pylon, and another 10 to the boat launch. The nearest train station is 22km away at Macherla, bolivar ferry schedule where buses leave regularly for Nagarjuna Sagar.

Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo 250/530, eight/seven hours) and, in the afternoon, Hyderabad ( superluxury / Volvo 470/870, 14/12 hours).

arnold ferry line The bus stand has a helpful enquiry desk (%2522200). Frequent services run to Hyderabad (deluxe/Volv

Legends about the hill itself and the surrounding area appear in the Puranas, and the temple s history may date back 2000 years. The main temple is an atmospheric place, though you ll be pressed between hundreds of devotees when you see it. The inner sanctum itself is dark and magical; arnold ferry line it smells arnold ferry line of incense, resonates with chanting and may make you religious. There, Venkateshwara sits gloriously on his throne, inspiring bliss and love among his visitors. You ll have a moment to make a wish and then you ll be shoved out again. Don t forget to collect your delicious ladoo (sweet made of fl our, sugar, raisins and nuts) from the counter.

The bus stand has a helpful enquiry desk (%2522200). Frequent services run to Hyderabad arnold ferry line (deluxe/Volvo 193/375, six to seven hours), Amaravathi ( 38, two hours), Warangal (deluxe 180, 5 hours) and Visakhapatnam (deluxe/Volvo 270/540, nine hours).

shekou ferry 1 Sights & Activities Beaches BEACH The long beaches of Waltair overlook the Bay of Bengal, with its

MAJOR DOMESTIC FLIGHTS FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION LOWEST ONE-WAY FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FLIGHTS PER DAY Bengaluru 3000 1 20 Chennai 3000 1 15 Delhi 5000 2 12 Kolkota shekou ferry 5500 2 5 Mumbai 3000 1 25 Tirupathi shekou ferry 2800 1 3 Visakhapatnam 3500 1 5

1 Sights shekou ferry & Activities Beaches BEACH The long beaches of Waltair overlook the Bay of Bengal, with its mammoth ships and brightly painted fishing boats. Its coastal Beach Rd, lined with parks and weird sculptures, is great for long walks.

ferry to connecticut Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainla

Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; ferry to connecticut Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150; h10am-5pm Sat- Thu) The huge and varied collection, dating back to the 1st century, ferry to connecticut was put together by Mir Yusaf Ali Khan (Salar ferry to connecticut Jung III), the grand vizier of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (r 1910 49). The 35,000 exhibits from every corner of the world include sculptures, wood carvings, ivory (including a sadly ironic set of carved ferry to connecticut elephants), devotional objects, Persian miniature paintings, illuminated manuscripts, ferry to connecticut weaponry, toys and more than 50,000 books. The impressive nizams jewellery collection is sometimes on display. Cameras are not allowed. Avoid Sunday, when it s bedlam. From any of the bus stands in the Abids area, take bus 7, which stops at Afzal Gunj bus stop (Map p 900 ) on the north side of the nearby Musi River bridge.

1 Sights & Activities Beaches BEACH The long beaches of Waltair overlook the Bay of Bengal, with its mammoth ships and brightly painted fishing boats. Its coastal Beach Rd, lined with parks and weird sculptures, is great for long walks.

Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainland India, is worth a visit. Here you ll find more bizarre sculptures, a lighthouse dating from 1861, an interesting Dutch cemetery and Bheemli Beach, where local grommets surf on crude homemade boards. To get here catch bus 999 ( 19), or otherwise a shared autorickshaw ferry to connecticut

sayville bowling Museum of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tour

Museum of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tours ( 500) from Vizag, which take in a performance sayville bowling of Dhimsa, a tribal dance, and the million-year-old limestone sayville bowling Borra Caves (admission 40, camera sayville bowling 100; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm), 30km from Araku.

Good what s on guides include Channel sayville bowling 6 (www.channel6magazine.com), GO Hyderabad and City Info. The juiciest is Wow! Hyderabad (www.wowhyderabad.com; 25). The Deccan Chronicle is a good local paper; its Hyderabad Chronicle insert has info on happenings.

distance from anchorage to fairbanks Liquids Et cera BAR (Map p902; %66259907; Bhaskar Plaza, Rd No 1, Banjara Hills) Regularly featured

Liquids Et cera BAR (Map p902; %66259907; distance from anchorage to fairbanks Bhaskar Plaza, Rd No 1, Banjara Hills) Regularly featured in the papers Society pages, Liquids is the reigning distance from anchorage to fairbanks queen of Hyderabad nightlife. There s no sign, and its name changes distance from anchorage to fairbanks slightly each year.

Hotel Annapurna HOTEL $$ (%2250666; Nethaji Rd; r from 850; a) A wee bit overpriced, but it s convenient and well organised. Rooms are clean, compact and pink, with constant hot water. Since it s on a corner (across from the train station), non-AC front rooms can be noisy. Its veg restaurant (mains 45-80) has fresh juices and Tirupathi s best food in sublime air-conditioning.

Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo 250/530, eight/seven hours) and, in the afternoon, Hyderabad ( superluxury / Volvo 470/870, 14/12 hours). distance from anchorage to fairbanks

Launches ( 90, one hour) depart from Vijayapuri, on the banks of Nagarjuna Sagar, at 9.30am, 11am and 1.30pm, and stay for one hour. To do the place justice, take the morning launch out and the afternoon one back. Extra morning launches usually run on weekends and holidays. distance from anchorage to fairbanks Fisherman distance from anchorage to fairbanks out in their dish-shaped coracle boats provide good photographic material.

noaa juneau Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm,

Haritha Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562333; Beach Rd, Appughar; r incl breakfast from 900; a) This APTDC hotel, formerly Punnami, is near Kailasagiri noaa juneau Hill and right across from the beach. The lowest-priced rooms (with no views) are only so-so; noaa juneau bump yourself up if you can. Checkout is 10am.

Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.

Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm).

port liberte ferry From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, reigned throughout the Dec

About 65km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa Temple (h6am-6.30pm), port liberte ferry built in 1234, is an attractive example of Kakatiya architecture, although it was clearly influenced by Chalukya and Hoysala styles. Its pillars are ornately carved and its eaves shelter fine statues of female forms.

From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, reigned throughout the Deccan plateau. It evolved from the Andhra people, whose presence in southern India may date back to 1000 BC. The Buddha s teaching took root here early on, and in the 3rd century BC the Andhras fully embraced it, building huge edifices in its honour. In the coming centuries, the Andhras would develop a fl ourishing civilisation that extended from the west to the east coasts of South India.

hawaii ferry service Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful optio

Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful option hawaii ferry service with rooms looking out to fields, though it s overpriced. The Hill Resort Mayuri (%958936-249204; cottages from 650; a), near the museum, has cottages with good views. There s also a few uninspiring options around the station, otherwise you could try the forest retreat of Jungle Bells (Tyda; cottages from 800; a), 45km from Araku, with cottages tucked away in woods. Book at APTDC. You can sample hawaii ferry service the local coffee at Araku Valley Coffee House (h9am-9pm), next to the Museum of Habitat.

To get here, take a Puttaparthi-Bengaluru bus and alight at Kodakonda Checkpost ( 40). From there, take a Hindupur-bound bus ( 14) or an autorickshaw ( 250 return) to Lepakshi. A private car from Puttaparthi is 1000. You can also go from Hindupur, hawaii ferry service a main stop on the Puttaparthi-Bengaluru train line, which has a few hotels. It s 11km from the temple.

weather in alaska in july 5 Eating Lotus Food City INDIAN $$ (www.lotusthefoodcity.com; Seethanagaram; mains 80-150) Set up by

(%2856330; www.saipriyabeachresorts.com; cottages/r from 700/1300; ais) Boasting a prime position right on Rushikonda beach, Sai Priya offers either modern rooms, some with sea views, or more rustic bamboo and cane cottages which have more of a beachy feel. The grounds are lush and almost really beautiful but, like the rest of the place, they fall short of their potential. Also, checkout s a rude 8am. Guests and nonguests can use the pool for two hours for 100.

5 Eating Lotus Food City INDIAN $$ (www.lotusthefoodcity.com; Seethanagaram; mains 80-150) Set up by APTDC, this food complex has a lovely spot on the Krishna River where you can dine in or outdoors looking out to the shimmering water.

ido holistic center Forty kilometres southwest of Vizag is this stunning Buddhist complex (admission free; h9am-6pm), be

Forty kilometres southwest of Vizag is this stunning Buddhist complex (admission free; h9am-6pm), better known by the name of its two hills, Bojjannakonda and Lingalakonda. Used by monks from the 1st to 9th centuries AD (p910), ido holistic center the hills are covered with rock-cut

Tirupathi is the service town at the bottom of the hill, with hotels, restaurants, and transport; a fleet of buses constantly ferries pilgrims the 18km up and down. You ll find most of your worldly needs around the Tirupathi bus station (TP Area) and, about 500m away, the train station.

Minerva Grand HOTEL $$$ (Map p 896 ; %66117373; www.minervagrand.com; SD Rd, Secunderabad; s/d incl breakfast from 4000 /4400; aiW) It s rare to find a hotel that has genuine style; this place has nailed it. Standard rooms (one wheelchair-accessible) have striking deep-fuchsia walls, white furniture, tasselled bedspreads and piles of pillows. More-expensive rooms are also bold in design, and all rooms have hardwood floors, gentle ido holistic center lighting and sleek, spacious bathrooms. A diamond in the rough of Sarojini Devi Rd.

ocracoke ferry schedule Tirupathi s bus station (%2289900) has buses to Chennai (deluxe/Volvo 70/155, four hours) and Hydera

Tirupathi station is well served ocracoke ferry schedule by express trains, running to Chennai (2nd-class chair/ chair ( 62/206, three hours), Bengaluru (sleeper/3AC/2AC 168/470/628, seven hours), Hyderabad/Secunderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 284/764/1047, 12 hours) and Vijayawada (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The reservation office (%2225850; h8am-8pm ocracoke ferry schedule Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) is across ocracoke ferry schedule the street.

Tirupathi s bus station (%2289900) has buses to Chennai (deluxe/Volvo 70/155, four hours) and Hyderabad (deluxe/Volvo 408/717, 12/10 hours). Tonnes of APSRTC and KSTDC buses go to Bengaluru (deluxe/Volvo 153/365, six/five hours), and seven buses go to Puttaparthi daily (express/deluxe 165/227, eight hours). ocracoke ferry schedule

Excess Club BAR (%23542422; ocracoke ferry schedule Novotel, Madhavpur; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) Set over a huge space, Excess was the current most happening place; open the latest, the best DJs, but the furthest away past Hitech City.

port townsend ferry In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderaba

In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance port townsend ferry of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet port townsend ferry 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself port townsend ferry as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, port townsend ferry and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond port townsend ferry is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

Visit Visakhapatnam also called Vizag (vie-zag) during the holiday season and you ll see domestic tourism in rare form: balloons, fairy floss (cotton candy) and, of course, weddings! But the crowds only enhance the area s kitschy coasts. The rundown boardwalk along Ramakrishna Beach has lots of spunk, and the beach at nearby Rushikonda is Andhra s best.

alaska hwy Tirupathi is the service town at the bottom of the hill, with hotels, restaurants, and transport; a

# # # # # # # # # f SR NAGAR AMEERPET BANJARA HILLS SOMAJIGUDA MASAB TANK SAIFABAD Hussain Sagar Banjara Lake KBR Park Jalagam alaska hwy Vengala alaska hwy Rao Park Chacha Nehru Park Ameerpet Rd Rd No 3 Panjagutta Rd Lakdi-ka-pul Rd Mahavir Marg RdNo 1 Rd No 2 Greenlands Rd Rd No 14 YellareddygudaRd RdNo 5 Rd No 13 Rd No 7 Rd No 10 AmeerpetRd Rd No 12 Balkampet Rd YousufgudaMain Rd Srinagar Colony Rd Necklace Rd Necklace Rd Train Station Khairatabad Train Station Begumpet alaska hwy Train Station Lakdikapul Train Station 20 19 18 12 14 5 10 6 9 8 15 17 2 13 11 1 16 7 3 4 Care Hospital 4

Tirupathi is the service town at the bottom of the hill, with hotels, restaurants, and transport; a fleet of buses constantly ferries pilgrims the 18km up and down. You ll find most of your worldly needs around the Tirupathi bus station (TP Area) and, about 500m away, the train station.

oWaterfront ASIAN FUSION $$$ (Map p902; %65278899; Necklace Rd; mains 175-650; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm) The outdoor deck here on the water (dinner service alaska hwy only) may have the best ambience in all of Hyderabad, with soft lighting overhead, the Buddha Statue and the entire Hussain Sagar and the Birla Mandir all twinkling in the distance. alaska hwy Eating indoors, alongside enormous picture windows, isn t bad either. But it s the Chinese, Indian and Thai food that s to die for their take on phad kea mou (noodles with tasty bok choy) is a must-eat.

ferry to port townsend Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off

Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. ferry to port townsend com; cnr Abids & King Kothi Rds; s/d with AC from 1200/1650; a) This rambling 1924 heritage building has a magnificent exterior, plants peppered about and decent, though ultimately ferry to port townsend overpriced rooms. Each is different so ask to see a few: the better ferry to port townsend ones have boudoirs, crystal-knobbed armoires and wood-beam ceilings.

Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem ferry to port townsend (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.

Most people stay at the ashram (%287390; www.srisathyasai.org.in), ferry to port townsend a small village with all amenities. Lodging is cheap but basic. Advance bookings aren t taken; visitors under 25 must be in a family or group.

marine highway Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big

Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big about this dosa joint: the portions, the taste and the very idea itself of a gourmet dosa. The feta cheese and roasted pepper dosa, served with sundried-tomato chutney or the shredded chicken dosa make the journey out to Jubilee Hills worthwhile.

So come, but only if you re prepared to dig for the jewels to be found here. Keep your eyes open and your curiosity sharp and you re bound to find something that even Andhrans, marine highway in their modesty, hadn t thought to mention.

dewees island ferry Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attribut

Prasanthi Nilayam (Abode of Highest Peace) is the main ashram of the late Sri Sathya Sai Baba (1926 2011), the deceased afro-haired guru revered by followers dewees island ferry from around the world. Setting up the ashram in his hometown of Puttaparthi 60 years ago, he lived here for most of the year, though with his death from a respiratory-related illness on 24 April 2011, the town faces an uncertain future. While the millions of dollars pumped into the nearby hospital, dewees island ferry schools and university will ensure the town continues to thrive upon his legacy, long-term it remains dewees island ferry to be seen whether devotees will continue to arrive en masse without the presence of the man himself.

909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally 909MAJOR BUS ROUTES dewees island ferry FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally dewees island ferry 142K Koti Golconda dewees island ferry 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally

Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attributed to him is the granting of any wish made before the idol at Tirumala. Many pilgrims also donate their hair to the deity in gratitude for a wish fulfilled, or to renounce ego so hundreds of barbers attend to devotees. Tirumala dewees island ferry and Tirupathi are filled with tonsured men, women and children, generating big money from exports to Western wig companies.

From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, reigned throughout the Deccan plateau. It evolved from the Andhra people, whose presence in southern India may date back to 1000 BC. The Buddha s teaching took root here early on, and in the 3rd century BC the Andhras dewees island ferry fully embraced it, building huge edifices in its honour. In the coming centuries, the Andhras would develop a fl ourishing civilisation that extended from the west to the east coasts of South India.

anacortes to sidney ferry and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has

and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana anacortes to sidney ferry and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has a two-storey group of rock-cut caves fl anked by dwarapalakas (doorkeepers) and containing a stupa and gorgeous carvings of the Buddha (some restored). Atop the hill sit the ruins of a huge stupa and a monastery; you can still make out the individual cells where monks meditated. Lingalakonda is piled high with stupas, some of them enormous.

1000-Pillared Temple HINDU TEMPLE (h6am-6pm) Built in 1163, the 1000-Pillared Temple on the slopes of Hanamkonda Hill, 400m from Hanamkonda crossroads, is a fine example of Chalukyan architecture in a peaceful, leafy setting. Dedicated to three deities Shiva, Vishnu and Surya it has been carefully restored with intricately carved pillars and a central, very impressive Nandi (bull; Shiva s mount) of black granite.

ferry schedule vashon Modern Cafe INDIAN $ (Sree Lakshmi Vilas; Besant Rd, Governorpet; meals 58; h6.30am-10.30pm) With bl

Andhra Pradesh won t hit you over the head with its attractions. It doesn t brag about its temples or its colourful history. It s forgotten most of its palaces and royal architecture you ll have to purposely seek them out.

Modern Cafe INDIAN $ (Sree Lakshmi Vilas; Besant Rd, Governorpet; meals 58; h6.30am-10.30pm) With blackand- white-check floors and mismatched wooden chairs, this gritty, down-home veg joint has a heavy 1940s vibe. The meals are great, as are the fresh juices ( 15).

Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see the temple s Naga-lingam (a phallic ferry schedule vashon representation of Shiva) crowned with a seven-headed cobra. The temple is known for its unfinished Kalyana Mandapam (Marriage Hall), depicting the wedding of Parvati and Shiva, and its Natyamandapa (Dance Hall), with carvings of dancing gods. The temple s most stunning ferry schedule vashon features, though, are the Natyamandapa s ceiling frescoes.

Vijay Vihar Complex HOTEL $$ (%277362; fax 276633; r with AC from 1800; as) Two kilometres up the hill from the bus stand is the fancy government hotel overlooking the lake. Room balconies have excellent views.

sayville motor lodge Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North a

Just around sayville motor lodge the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North and South Indian, including sayville motor lodge top- notch dosas ( 33 to 58). Its rava masala dosa (made with semolina) sayville motor lodge is the best thing ever.

New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, Bowdara Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An unassuming little place with really good, really hot Andhra dishes. Meals ( 50/130 for veg/ non-veg) and biryani are top-notch.

parks highway alaska Kondapalli fort (admission 5, camera 100; h10.30am-5pm), strategically situated on the old Machilipa

Nowhere suits the term fit for royalty better than at the Falaknuma Palace, the former residence of the sixth nizam. Taking over a decade to restore, the Taj Group s latest luxury hotel has most certainly been worth the wait. The cheapest rooms have Italian marble floors, colonial furniture and great city views, while the Presidential Suite (an astounding 500,000 per night) was

Kondapalli fort (admission 5, camera 100; h10.30am-5pm), strategically situated on the old Machilipatnam Golconda trade route, was built in 1360 by the Reddy kings, and was held by the Gajapathis, the Qutb Shahis, the Mughals and the nizams before becoming a British parks highway alaska military camp in 1767. Today it s a quiet, lovely ruin. On weekdays, you ll likely have the place to yourself and you can easily parks highway alaska spend a few hours hiking around. Kondapalli village, 1km downhill, is famous for its wooden dolls. The fort is 21km from Vijayawada; an autorickshaw is 400 return.

In 1724 the Hyderabad parks highway alaska viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. parks highway alaska The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond parks highway alaska is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

arnold line ferry Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off

Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.

Touch BAR (Map p902; %23542422; Trendset Towers, Rd No 2, Banjara Hills); h7pm-midnight Wed, Sat & Sun) Touch is all about image. It s a stylish, comfy place to watch the beautiful people. Also has an ice bar with temperatures set at -23.

Puttaparthi is most easily arnold line ferry reached from Bengaluru, 160km south; nine KSRTC buses (express/ Volvo 110/220, four hours) and eight trains (sleeper/3AC/2AC 133/323/420, three hours) head here daily. The KSRTC offi ce (%288938) is next to the bus station.

Hotel Annapurna HOTEL $$ (%2250666; Nethaji Rd; r from 850; a) A wee bit overpriced, but it s convenient and well organised. Rooms are clean, compact and pink, with constant hot water. Since it s on a corner (across from the train station), non-AC front rooms can be noisy. Its veg restaurant (mains arnold line ferry 45-80) has fresh juices and Tirupathi s best food in sublime air-conditioning.

new london ferry to montauk Kondapalli fort (admission 5, camera 100; h10.30am-5pm), strategically situated on the old Machilipa

Kondapalli fort (admission 5, camera 100; h10.30am-5pm), strategically situated on the old Machilipatnam Golconda trade route, was built in 1360 by the Reddy kings, and was held by the Gajapathis, the Qutb Shahis, the Mughals and the nizams before becoming a British military camp in 1767. Today it s a quiet, lovely ruin. On weekdays, you ll likely have the place to yourself new london ferry to montauk and you can easily spend a few hours hiking around. Kondapalli village, new london ferry to montauk 1km downhill, is famous for its wooden dolls. The fort is 21km from Vijayawada; an autorickshaw new london ferry to montauk is 400 return.

Forty kilometres southwest of Vizag is this stunning Buddhist complex (admission free; h9am-6pm), better known by the name of its two hills, Bojjannakonda and Lingalakonda. Used by monks from the 1st to 9th centuries AD (p910), the hills are covered with rock-cut

902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City families and good vibes. Kamat Hotel INDIAN $ (Map p 896 ; SD Rd, Secunderabad; mains 45-75; h7am-10pm) How much do we love Kamat Hotel? Words can t say. Each Kamat is slightly diff erent, but they re all cheap and good. There are two branches on SD Rd; the others are in Saifabad and on Nampally Station Rd (Map p 898 ). Meals (from 36) are reliably delish. Kamat Andhra Meals INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Troop Bazaar; meals from 45; hnoon- 4pm & 7-11pm) Excellent authentic Andhra meals on banana leaves, topped up till you almost faint with pleasure, and fi nished off with a banana. Its sister restaurants new london ferry to montauk in the same compound Kamat Jowar Bhakri (Maharashtran), Kamat Restaurant with air-con (North and South Indian) and Kamat Coffee Shop are likewise friendly family joints full of happy diners. new london ferry to montauk No relation to Kamat Hotel. Also recommended: Paradise Persis Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Map p 896 ; cnr SD & MG Rds, Secunderabad; mains 125-245; h11.30am-11pm) Ask any Hyderabadi about biryani, and they ll mention Paradise. Mozamjahi Market MARKET $ (Map p 900 ; cnr Mukarramjahi & Jawaharlal Nehru Rds; h6am-6pm) A great place to buy fruit and vegies (or ice cream), new london ferry to montauk while enjoying the alluring architecture of the stone building, commissioned by the seventh nizam and named after his son. Sagar Papaji new london ferry to montauk Ka Dhaba INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Hanuman Tekdi Rd; mains 45-110; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm) Always busy, Papaji s has profoundly delicious veg and non-veg biryanis, curries and tikkas. Watch the : : : : : : : : 6 6 1

Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science new london ferry to montauk Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm).

wa st ferry schedule considered amalgamation with Pakistan and then opted for sovereignty. Tensions between Muslims and H

considered amalgamation with Pakistan and then opted for sovereignty. Tensions between Muslims and Hindus increased, wa st ferry schedule however, and military intervention saw Hyderabad join the Indian union in 1948. Sights Charminar MONUMENT (Four Towers; Map p900; Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am-5.30pm) Hyderabad s principal landmark wa st ferry schedule was built by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1591 to commemorate wa st ferry schedule the founding of Hyderabad and the end of epidemics caused by Golconda s water shortage. wa st ferry schedule The dramatic four-column, 56m high and 30m wide structure has four arches facing the cardinal points. Minarets sit atop each column. The 2nd floor, home to Hyderabad s oldest mosque, and upper columns wa st ferry schedule are not usually open to the public, but you can try your luck with the man with the key. The structure is illuminated wa st ferry schedule from 7pm to 9pm.

B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda wa st ferry schedule Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur wa st ferry schedule Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA wa st ferry schedule M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda wa st ferry schedule Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri wa st ferry schedule Sagar Nagarjuna wa st ferry schedule River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles

oTaj Mahal Hotel (Himayathnagar) HOTEL $$ (off Map p898; %27637836-9; tajcafe@gmail.com; Himayathnagar; s/d from 900/1200; aW) Despite its unfortunate location in front of an overpass on Himayathnagar Rd, the Taj is a peaceful, sunny, stylish place where the staff are warm and welcoming and the hallway floors look like Jaipuri marble. Rooms are surprisingly tasteful, with sleek lamps and chunky, contemporary wooden furniture. Comfy and classy for less than the going rate makes this a great choice.

Andhra plays hard to get: its charms are subtle. But if you look closely, wa st ferry schedule you ll find a long, fascinating history wa st ferry schedule of arts, culture, spiritual scholarship and religious harmony. In Hyderabad s Old City, Islamic monuments, Persian-inspired architecture and the call of the muezzin speak of the city s unique heritage.

new york ferry routes Nagarjuna Resort HOTEL $ (%08642-242471; r from 750; a) The most convenient place to stay, across th

When he was 14, Sai Baba declared himself new york ferry routes to be the reincarnation of another Sai Baba, a saintly figure who died in 1918 (p 764 ). His millions of devotees regarded him as a true avatar and believed he performed miracles. Coming for the program of darshan (here that meant seeing Baba though since poor health in 2005 his appearances were increasingly sporadic), they packed the ashram twice-daily new york ferry routes for chanting and prayer. The sight of clean, well-paved streets lined with internet cafes might come as a surprise here, as will the prevalence of robed foreign devotees.

C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana new york ferry routes Meditation Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation new york ferry routes courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.

Nagarjuna Resort HOTEL $ (%08642-242471; r from 750; a) The most convenient place to stay, across the road from the boat launch. It has spacious, slightly shabby rooms with geysers, balconies and good views.

Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150; h10am-5pm Sat- Thu) The huge and varied collection, dating back to the 1st century, was put together by Mir Yusaf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), the grand vizier of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (r 1910 49). The 35,000 exhibits from every corner of the world include sculptures, wood carvings, ivory (including a sadly ironic set of carved elephants), devotional objects, Persian miniature paintings, illuminated manuscripts, weaponry, toys and more than 50,000 books. The impressive nizams jewellery collection is sometimes on display. new york ferry routes Cameras are not allowed. Avoid Sunday, when it s bedlam. From any of the bus stands in the Abids area, take bus 7, which stops at Afzal Gunj bus stop (Map p 900 ) on the north side of the nearby Musi River bridge.

ferry to hoboken 5 Eating Lotus Food City INDIAN $$ (www.lotusthefoodcity.com; Seethanagaram; mains 80-150) Set up by

The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden, where temple sculptures from around the state (dating ferry to hoboken from the 3rd century AD) line shady paths, is lovely.

Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.

5 Eating Lotus Food City INDIAN $$ (www.lotusthefoodcity.com; Seethanagaram; mains 80-150) Set up by APTDC, this food complex has a lovely spot on the Krishna River where you can dine in or outdoors looking out to the shimmering water.

Warangal is a major rail junction. Trains go regularly to Hyderabad (2nd class/chair 67/229, ferry to hoboken three hours), Vijayawada (2nd class/ chair 79/278, four hours) and Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 277/723/979, 11 hours). Many trains go to Delhi daily.

tortola ferry schedule Liquids Et cera BAR (Map p902; %66259907; Bhaskar Plaza, Rd No 1, Banjara Hills) Regularly featured

The bus stand has a helpful enquiry desk (%2522200). Frequent services run to Hyderabad (deluxe/Volvo 193/375, six to seven hours), Amaravathi ( 38, two hours), Warangal (deluxe 180, 5 hours) and Visakhapatnam (deluxe/Volvo 270/540, nine hours).

Liquids Et cera BAR (Map p902; %66259907; Bhaskar Plaza, Rd No 1, Banjara tortola ferry schedule Hills) Regularly featured in the papers tortola ferry schedule Society pages, Liquids is the reigning queen of Hyderabad nightlife. tortola ferry schedule There s no sign, and its name changes slightly each year.

restoration of this dazzling palace or, technically, four (char) palaces (mahalla). tortola ferry schedule Begun in 1750, it was expanded over the next 100 years, absorbing Persian, Indo-Saracenic, Rajasthani and European styles. The southern courtyard has one mahal with period rooms that have been reconstructed with the nizams over-the-top furniture; another mahal with an exhibit tortola ferry schedule on life in the zenana (women s quarters); antique tortola ferry schedule cars; and curiosities like elephant seats, and a Remington Urdu typewriter.

captain farris house Hyderabad s scene is growing, but drinking establishments are limited by an 11.30pm curfew law. Unle

# # SECUNDERABADMARREDPALLYHussainSagarSanjiraiahPark Parade Grounds SD Rd Sardar Patel (SP) Rd C l u b R d StMarysRd Rashtrapati Rd WestMarredpallyRd Necklace Rd W ellingtonRd BoyigudaRd Entrenc hmentRd Kavadigu d a RdSikhVillage Rd SarojiniDevi(SD)Rd MG Rd Park L a St No 16 S P R d MinisterRdSubha s h R d PicketRd Sanjiraiah ParkTrain Station James St Train Station Secunderabad Train Station captain farris house American captain farris house Consulate Jubilee Bus Station Mahankali Temple APTDC SpanishMosque 5 3 4 1 2 31CBC2312BAADD ANDHRA PRADESH

Hyderabad s scene is growing, but drinking establishments are limited by an 11.30pm curfew law. Unless stated otherwise, the following bars are open to 11.30pm (but don t get going till 9pm). All serve food and charge covers ( 500 to 1000) on certain nights for couples, that is: guys usually need a gal to enter. Beer starts at 150, cocktails at 300.

alaska maritime highway Walking TTD has constructed probably the best footpath in India for pilgrims to walk up to Tirumala.

If you re pressed for time, APTDC runs three-day tours ( 1950) to Tirumala alaska maritime highway from Hyderabad. KSTDC (p 849 ) and TTDC (p 998 ) offer the same from Bengaluru and Chennai, respectively. APTDC also has a full-day alaska maritime highway tour ( 340) of temples in the Tirupathi area.

Walking TTD has constructed probably the best footpath in India for pilgrims alaska maritime highway to walk up to Tirumala. It s about 15km from Tirupathi and takes four to six hours. Leave your luggage at the toll gate at Alipiri near the Hanuman statue. It will be transported free to the reception centre. At the time of research walking was prohibited from 4pm to 6am due to several leopard attacks on pilgrims. There are shady rest points along the way, and a few canteens.

Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.

buckleberry ferry Vijay Vihar Complex HOTEL $$ (%277362; fax 276633; r with AC from 1800; as) Two kilometres up the hi

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Hyderabad buckleberry ferry s new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport is the main arrival point. The main train stations are Nampally buckleberry ferry and Secunderabad in Hyderabad; Imlibun is the interstate bus station. Visakhaptnam has monthly ferries leaving to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Fast Facts

910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually buckleberry ferry pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking buckleberry ferry across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself buckleberry ferry visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct buckleberry ferry stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding buckleberry ferry Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana buckleberry ferry Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist buckleberry ferry thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following buckleberry ferry centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South.

Vijay Vihar Complex HOTEL $$ (%277362; fax 276633; r with AC from 1800; as) Two kilometres up the hill from the bus stand is the fancy government hotel overlooking the lake. Room balconies have excellent views.

About 65km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa Temple (h6am-6.30pm), built in 1234, is an attractive example of Kakatiya architecture, although it was clearly influenced by Chalukya and Hoysala styles. Its pillars are ornately carved and its eaves shelter fine statues of female forms.

north carolina ferry schedules 898 ANDHRA PRADESH Kalakriti ART GALLERY (Map p 902 ; www.kalakriti.in; Rd No 10, Banjara Hills; h11

(%2856330; www.saipriyabeachresorts.com; cottages/r from 700/1300; ais) Boasting a prime position right on Rushikonda beach, Sai Priya offers either modern rooms, some with sea views, or more rustic bamboo and cane cottages which have more of a beachy feel. The grounds are lush and almost really beautiful but, like the rest of the place, they fall short of their potential. Also, checkout s a rude 8am. Guests and nonguests can use the pool for two hours for 100.

898 ANDHRA north carolina ferry schedules PRADESH Kalakriti ART GALLERY (Map p 902 ; www.kalakriti.in; Rd No 10, Banjara Hills; h11am-7pm) Shrishti ART GALLERY (www.shrishtiart.com; Rd No 15, Jubilee Hills; h11am-7pm) north carolina ferry schedules C Courses Vipassana International Meditation Centre north carolina ferry schedules BUDDHIST MEDITATION (Dhamma Khetta; %24240290; north carolina ferry schedules www.khetta. dhamma.org; Nagarjuna Sagar Rd, 12.6km) The Vipassana International Meditation Centre has intensive 10-day meditation courses in its peaceful grounds 20km outside the city. Apply online or at the Hyderabad office (%24732569). A shuttle runs to/from Hyderabad on the fi rst and last day of courses. T Tours APTDC (p 906 ) tours the city ( 270), Ramoji Film City ( 600), Nagarjuna Sagar (weekends, north carolina ferry schedules 450) and Tirupathi/Tirumala (three days, 1950). The Sound & Light tour ( 200) takes in Hitec City, the botanic gardens and Golconda Fort s sound-and-light show, but you may spend much of it in traffi c. Tours leave from APTDC s Secunderabad branch (Map p 896 ) : : : : : : : 66 66 66 66 66 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 6 66 66 66 66 66 # R R # # # # # # # # # #

ws ferries Autorickshaw Flag fall is 12 for the first kilometre, then 7 for each additional kilometre. Between

New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, Bowdara Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An unassuming little place with really ws ferries good, really hot Andhra dishes. Meals ( 50/130 for veg/ non-veg) ws ferries and biryani are top-notch.

Autorickshaw Flag fall is 12 for the first kilometre, then 7 for each additional kilometre. Between 10pm and 5am a 50% surcharge applies. Unfortunately, the new electronic meters often don t work and lots of drivers won t use them: be prepared to negotiate.

India Tourism (Government of India; Map p 898; %23261360, 23260770; Netaji Bhavan, Himayathnagar Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Very helpful for information on Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and beyond.

Haritha Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562333; Beach Rd, Appughar; r incl breakfast from 900; a) This APTDC hotel, formerly Punnami, is near Kailasagiri Hill and right across from the beach. The lowest-priced rooms (with no views) are only so-so; bump yourself up if you can. Checkout is 10am.