kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage horseshoe bay beacon centres: on average, horseshoe bay beacon 40,000 pilgrims come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim.
Angeethi PUNJABI $$ (Map p902; 7th fl, Reliance horseshoe bay beacon Classic Bldg, Rd No 1; mains 180-290; hnoon-3.30pm & 7-11pm) Designed to resemble an old Punjabi dhaba (snack bar), jazzed up with vintage Bollywood posters on the walls, Angeethi does outstanding North Indian and Punjabi dishes, such as corn methi malai (sweet-corn stew with fenugreek leaves; 185).
The old beach-resort vibe exists despite the fact that Vizag is Andhra Pradesh s second-largest city, famous for shipbuilding, steel manufacturing and now, call centres, software and film production. It s a big, dusty city, but it s surrounded by little gems:
Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.
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