C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.
the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge in delicious spicy fried fish ( 120) and tiger prawns ( 160). It s also a great spot for a cold beer with ocean views and a big outdoor screen. It s an overwhelmingly male clientele, but isn t seedy like some Indian bars.
In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams palm island ferry with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)
Qutb Shahi Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; admission 10, camera/video 20/100; h9am-5pm) These graceful domed tombs sit serenely in landscaped gardens palm island ferry about 1.5km northwest of Golconda Fort s Balahisar Gate. Seven of the nine Qutb Shahi rulers were buried here, as well as members of the royal family and respected citizens palm island ferry from entertainers to doctors. You could easily spend half a day here taking photos and wandering in and out of the mausoleums. The upper level of Mohammed Quli s tomb, reached via a narrow staircase, has good views of the area. The Qutb Shahi Tombs booklet ( 20) may be available at the ticket counter.
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