When he was 14, Sai Baba declared himself to be the reincarnation of another Sai Baba, a saintly milwaukee to muskegon ferry figure who died in 1918 (p 764 ). His millions of devotees regarded him as a true avatar and believed he performed miracles. Coming for the program of darshan (here that meant seeing milwaukee to muskegon ferry Baba though since poor health in 2005 his appearances were increasingly sporadic), they packed the ashram twice-daily for chanting and prayer. The sight of clean, well-paved streets lined with internet cafes might come as a surprise here, as will the prevalence of robed foreign devotees.
Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm).
The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coast you ll fi nd this side of India. Weekends get busy and take on a carnival-like atmosphere. Surfers keen for a paddle can rent decent boards from local surf pioneer, Melville, at SAAP
BBQ Nation INDIAN, CONTINENTAL $$ (Map p902; www.barbeque-nation.com; Rd No 1; lunch Mon-Sat 344, Sun 544, dinner 600; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm) All you can eat BBQ meat, seafood and vegetarian skewers served at your table.
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