Hotel Bliss HOTEL $$ (%2237773; www.blisstirupati.com; Reniguta seaways Rd; s/d from 1710/1980; ais) The most luxurious place in town with ultracomfortable rooms, professional staff and a glass lift with great views and droning pilgrim elevator music.
Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North and South Indian, including top- notch dosas ( 33 to 58). Its rava masala dosa (made with semolina) is the best thing ever.
Vijayawada is considered by many to be the heart of Andhra culture and language and has an important Durga temple. Nearby Amaravathi, meanwhile, was a centre of Buddhist learning and practice for many centuries.
So come, but only if you re prepared to dig for the jewels to be found here. Keep your eyes open and your curiosity sharp and you re bound to find something that even Andhrans, in their modesty, hadn t thought to mention.
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