sayville seafood festival Non-ashram options include the clean and simple Sai Surya Guest House (%288134; Gopuram Rd, 1st Cros

Non-ashram options include the clean and simple Sai Surya Guest House (%288134; Gopuram Rd, 1st Cross; r from 350), and the excellent-value Sri Sai Sadan (Meda s Guest House; %287507; srisaisadan@gmail. com; Gopuram Rd; r from 810; a), near Venugopalaswamy Temple, with a roof garden and spacious rooms with fridges and balconies.

Walking TTD has constructed probably the best footpath in India for pilgrims to walk up to Tirumala. It s about 15km from Tirupathi and takes four to six hours. Leave your luggage at the toll gate at Alipiri sayville seafood festival near the Hanuman statue. It will be transported sayville seafood festival free to the reception centre. At the time of research walking was prohibited from 4pm to 6am due to several leopard attacks on pilgrims. There are shady rest points along the way, and a few canteens.

Andhra Pradesh won t hit you over the head with its attractions. It doesn t brag about its temples or its colourful history. It s forgotten most of its palaces and royal architecture you ll have to purposely seek them out.

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30pm) Bashirbagh (Map p898 ; %23298456; NSF Shakar Bhavan, opposite Police Control Room); Secunderabad (Map p896 ; %27893100; Yatri Nivas Hotel, Sardar Patel Rd); Tankbund Rd (Map p898 ; %65581555; h10.30am-5pm) Organises tours.

baylink schedule Chudi Bazar HUSSINIALAMNAMPALLYABIDSKOTIPATTHARGATTIMUGHALPURAMusiRiverMir Alam Mandi Chadarghat Bri

From the 7th to the 10th century, the Chalukyas ruled the area, establishing baylink schedule their Dravidian style of architecture, especially along the coast. The Chalukya and Chola dynasties merged in the 11th century to be overthrown by the Kakatiyas, who introduced pillared temples into South Indian religious architec

Most people baylink schedule stay at the ashram (%287390; www.srisathyasai.org.in), a small village with all amenities. Lodging is cheap but basic. Advance bookings aren t taken; visitors under 25 must be in a family or group.

898 ANDHRA PRADESH Kalakriti ART GALLERY (Map p 902 ; www.kalakriti.in; Rd No 10, Banjara Hills; baylink schedule h11am-7pm) Shrishti ART GALLERY baylink schedule (www.shrishtiart.com; Rd No 15, Jubilee Hills; h11am-7pm) C Courses Vipassana International Meditation Centre BUDDHIST baylink schedule MEDITATION (Dhamma Khetta; %24240290; www.khetta. dhamma.org; Nagarjuna Sagar Rd, 12.6km) The Vipassana International Meditation Centre has intensive baylink schedule 10-day meditation courses in its peaceful grounds 20km outside the city. Apply online or at the Hyderabad office (%24732569). A shuttle runs to/from Hyderabad baylink schedule on the fi rst and last day of courses. T Tours APTDC (p 906 ) tours the city ( 270), Ramoji Film City ( 600), Nagarjuna Sagar (weekends, 450) and Tirupathi/Tirumala (three days, 1950). The Sound & Light tour ( 200) takes in Hitec City, the botanic gardens and Golconda Fort s sound-and-light show, but you may spend much of it in traffi c. Tours leave from APTDC s Secunderabad branch (Map p 896 ) : : : : : : : 66 66 66 66 66 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 6 66 66 66 66 66 # R R # # # # # # # # # #

Chudi Bazar HUSSINIALAMNAMPALLYABIDSKOTIPATTHARGATTIMUGHALPURAMusiRiverMir Alam Mandi Chadarghat Bridge KachegudaMainRdJawaarlal baylink schedule Nehru (JN) Rd MaulviAlladinRd Mir Alam Mandi Rd High C o u r t Rd Shah Ali Banda Rd Jambagh Rd SalarJungMarg RaniJhansi Rd Hussaini A l a m Rd Kot i M a in Rd DabirpuraTrain Station MalakpetTrain Station YakutpuraTrain Station 12 2 5 4 7 6 10 9 11 15 13 14 3 1 8 CharminarState Library 431CBC24312BAADDPatthargatti Area 0 1 km 0 0.5 milese the nizam s living quarters and has its own swimming pool and personal butler! If you don t have a spare half million, you can still pop in for high tea in the Jade Room, which has hosted royalty from around the world. baylink schedule

odden 909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids

Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attributed odden to him is the granting of any wish made before the idol at Tirumala. Many pilgrims also donate their hair to the deity in gratitude for a wish fulfilled, or to renounce ego so hundreds of barbers attend to devotees. Tirumala and Tirupathi are filled with tonsured men, women and children, generating big money from exports to Western wig companies.

Golden Glory Guesthouse HOTEL $ (Map p902; %23554765; www.goldengloryguest house.com; Rd No 3, Banjara Hills; s/d incl breakfast from 650/900, s incl breakfast without bathroom 290; aW) Nestled among the mansions of ritzy Banjara Hills, this gem of a hotel scores big on location. Tucked down a quiet residential street, it s the perfect place to escape the madness of Hyderabad. First impressions are grand with sparkling lobby and spiral staircase, and while the cheaper rooms are boxy, they re very clean and good value (and include a simple breakfast). Pricier rooms are more spacious with balconies and bathtubs.

909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar odden Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad odden station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally odden 909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally

ferry from michigan to wisconsin Tirupathi station is well served by express trains, running to Chennai (2nd-class chair/ chair ( 62/

Tirupathi station is well served by express trains, running to Chennai (2nd-class chair/ chair ( 62/206, three hours), Bengaluru (sleeper/3AC/2AC 168/470/628, seven hours), Hyderabad/Secunderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 284/764/1047, 12 hours) and Vijayawada ferry from michigan to wisconsin (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The reservation office (%2225850; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm ferry from michigan to wisconsin Sun) is across the street.

The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, ferry from michigan to wisconsin 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coast you ll fi nd this side of India. Weekends get busy and take on a carnival-like atmosphere. Surfers keen for a paddle can rent decent boards from local surf pioneer, Melville, ferry from michigan to wisconsin at SAAP

car ferry milwaukee fast from 1690/1790; aW) Under new management, the former budget Jaya International has reinvented i

fast from 1690/1790; aW) Under new management, the former budget Jaya International has reinvented itself as a smart and modern business hotel. Rooms are great value, comfortable and ultramodern. Its downside is the scungy hallways.

The Hill of Nagarjuna, 150km southeast of Hyderabad, is a peaceful island in the middle of the Nagarjuna dam peppered with ancient Buddhist structures. From the 3rd century BC until the 4th century car ferry milwaukee AD, the Krishna River valley was home to powerful empires that supported the sangha (Buddhist community of monks and nuns), including the Ikshvakus, whose capital was Nagarjunakonda. It s estimated that this area alone had 30 monasteries.

ferry schedule vashon Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), con

Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), constructed of white Rajasthani marble in 1976, graces ferry schedule vashon Kalabahad (Black ferry schedule vashon Mountain), one of two rocky hills overlooking the Hussain Sagar. ferry schedule vashon Dedicated to Venkateshwara, the temple is a popular Hindu pilgrimage centre and affords ferry schedule vashon excellent views over the city, especially at sunset. The library (h4- 8pm) here is worth a visit

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani ( 95 to 200) and, during Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate

great lakes ferry Museum of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tour

4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel Ashoka HOTEL $$ (%2578491; Main Rd, Hanamkonda; r from 600; ai) Good-value rooms near the Hanamkonda bus stand and the 1000-Pillared Temple. Also in the compound are a restaurant, a bar-restaurant, a pub and the veg Kanishka (mains 75 to 125).

Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see the temple s Naga-lingam (a phallic representation of Shiva) crowned with a seven-headed cobra. The temple is known for its unfinished Kalyana Mandapam (Marriage Hall), depicting the wedding of Parvati and Shiva, and its Natyamandapa (Dance Hall), with carvings of dancing gods. The temple s most stunning features, though, are the Natyamandapa s ceiling frescoes.

Museum of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tours ( 500) from Vizag, which take in a performance of Dhimsa, a tribal dance, and the million-year-old limestone Borra Caves (admission 40, camera 100; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm), 30km from Araku.

YMCA HOSTEL $ (Map p896; %27801190; secunderabadymca@ yahoo.co.in; cnr SP & SD Rd, Secunderabad; r from 500, without bathroom great lakes ferry from 350; a) One of the better cheapies, this cheery hostel has clean, no frill rooms, some with private balcony. It s near the clock tower.