If you re travelling around Andhra Pradesh during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called bhattis. You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.
Liquids Et cera BAR (Map p902; %66259907; Bhaskar starline ferry schedule Plaza, Rd No 1, Banjara Hills) Regularly featured in the papers Society pages, Liquids is the reigning queen of Hyderabad nightlife. There s no sign, and its name changes slightly each year.
Park HOTEL $$$ (%2754488; www.theparkhotels.com; Beach Rd; s/d from 7000/9000; ais) Vizag s only five-star is very elegant, very high-design. Even if you don t stay here, visit Bamboo Bay, its beachfront restaurant, for a drink. Checkout is noon.
FPaigah starline ferry schedule Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Paigah family, purportedly descendents of the second Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals under and alongside them. The Paigahs necropolis, tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble from Agra and lime stucco. The main complex contains 27 tombs with intricate inlay work, surrounded by delicately carved walls and canopies, stunning filigree screens with geometric patterning and, overhead, tall, graceful turrets. The tombs are down a small lane across from Owasi Hospital. Look for the Preston starline ferry schedule Junior College sign. The Paigah Tombs ( 20) booklet is sold at the AP State Museum, but not here.
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